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Lizard Rock
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Entry Fee 
Leapin' Lizards 

Entry Fee 

5.8 R

   

FA: Harvey T Carter & Annie S Carter, 1962
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 667 page views

Submitted By: Dan Russell on Nov 5, 2001


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Route topo (picturing Dan Russell on top of Lizard...


Description 

Begin on the southwest side (the parking lot side) and follow a 5.7 crack/face up about 25 feet to a flake. Place a #4 cam here if needed. Move up and a little right to gain the right end of the large, obvious flake splitting the tower just beneath the summit overhang. Use a long runner to sling a horn here, then proceed straight up on overhanging jugs to a 2 bolt/1 drilled pin anchor. Mantle (yeah...).

The rock quality is good, and can be trusted for the most part.


Protection 

Bring a #4 cam and a long runner to protect the crux moves.



Photos of Entry Fee Slideshow Add Photo

BETA PHOTO
Marcus Garcia and Ryan Ray on Lizard Rock on Thanksgiving of 2001

BETA PHOTO: Marcus Garcia and Ryan Ray on Lizard Rock on Thank...

Dan Russell on the final summit overhang of Entry Fee.

Dan Russell on the final summit overhang of Entry ...

TT on Entry Fee

TT on Entry Fee

Atop the lizard just before a rain shower!

Atop the lizard just before a rain shower!

Brian peers over the edge to view the (non-threatening) abyss below.

Brian peers over the edge to view the (non-threate...

Robin moving onto big flake before traversing right to final mantle move.

Robin moving onto big flake before traversing righ...

Lori Graf on the summit.<br />Photo by Todd Gordon.

Lori Graf on the summit.
Photo by Todd Gordon.


Me following 68 year old Czech climbing legend Zorka Prachtel.<br />

Me following 68 year old Czech climbing legend Zor...

Zorka normally climbs barefooted at home.

Zorka normally climbs barefooted at home.


Comments on Entry Fee Add Comment
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By Ben Folsom
From: Sandy, Utah
Nov 13, 2001

There is another variation to this route which is fun. Instead of going straight up from the big flake near the top, traverse the flake left until it runs out. Stand up and there is an old(not very trustworthy), hidden bolt. Then climb straight up from the bolt on steep jugs to the top. Still about 5.8.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 19, 2001

And yet another variation. Stand atop the right side of the flake, bearhug/grope a slopey bulge to the right and traverse right into a bowl. Follow a ledge halfway around the spire to the right (NE side, away from the parking), pull up enough slack to mantle and gain the top (about 5.6/7 move to gain summit). Don't even think of falling off the backside mantle though as you will spiral all around the tower on your way back to that slung flake.

By Holly Barnard
Apr 2, 2002

My partner was able to place a long sling and a #2 camalot (backing each other up) near the top of the right facing flake where the lower crack/flake climbing ends just prior to the face moves. You can also put a #4 camalot behind the upper flake before making your summit moves (a 4.5 might work too). Feel around for good holds on top. The bolts/pin on top look a little manky - tied-off bolts don't inspire confidence.

By Jon Cannon
Jan 24, 2006

Too short, and the texture of the rock is like a cheese grater. The exposure over on the right side was fun, though. An OK route, but not terribly indicative of what I think of when I think of Fisher Towers climbing.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 11, 2006

Probably most people's first introduction to climbing in the Fishers. Nothing to write home about, but will provide the first-timer with a general sense of what to expect on the bigger routes. Plus, it's an easy "tower" to tick.

By Rich Kelly
Nov 28, 2006

Instead of going straight up at the top of the tower, we followed Cameron Burns description and traversed right after standing on the big flake. It is a bit runout but easy. Once on the ledge, getting to the summit proved to be the crux (5.8) as there are no positive holds on top. Luckily there is a nice slot for a .5 Camalot that protects this move. My photo shows what I described.

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 2, 2007

I did this climb with Lori Graf in the early 1980's... I got scared. I believe this climb even today is still frightening people, isn't it? The bolts were sheit too.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Provo, Utah
Jan 3, 2009

Did the right side mantle variation at the top. Didn't have any gear to protect the mantle, so I was pretty gripped. A worthwhile climb but take more than just the #4 Camalot that is mentioned here. I took that and a #5 Friend. The #5 friend was good for the bottom crack. You could probably get a #1 (red) Camalot in above that, and above that there are some shallow horizontal slots where you could probably get in a C3 (maybe a red or yellow? or maybe the one smaller than those...) or TCU. I don't know if it'd hold but it would be nice psychological pro.

There are three bomber bolts with chains on top.

By JoergB
From: Germany
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.8

Nice climb with resonable pro and rock quality. I don't understand the "R" rating.