Start on the left side of the Crooked Arrow Spire. P1-5.8-Climb up 20' of "solid" chockstones. (Once on top of chockstones place a piece of gear high in a crack on the left to avoid horrid rope drag.) Walk/scramble to back of chimney, climb 3 cracks to a intermediate belay(we stopped here but to do the route in 2 pitches continue 50' to a belay in the col between the spire and the wall. P2-A1-Climb Bolts and fixed pins with 2 gear placements to summit. We counted 31 bolts/fixed pins. The last two 1/4" bolts don't have hangers but are on a slab and are pointing upwards.
Location
Descent- We rapped from the top to the intermediate belay on pitch 1(with two 60m ropes) then to the ground. I don't think you can rap the route with one rope because of the last pitch.
Thought the route was great fun ,really liked the classic chimney . the guide book discription is not very accurate .Its two good pitches to the gap, and the bolt ladder is longer(more bolts)
RE: pitch one; We made it to the gap in one 60 meter pitch. Unique pitch, chimneying and jamming 50 feet back in the chimney. It seemed more like 5.9 R.
Can anyone give a better discription. Eric's old school aid description doesn't make it sound that great. It looks so cool i'd like to know what it's like. Thanks
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Oct 13, 2004
I did the awful hump to the base a few years ago. The first pitch is an awful looking squeeze chimney. We brought nothing big(not sure if anything would fit) and we were light duty so we bailed.
If you loved leading Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest, the first pitch is for you.
There is somewhat of a trail to the viewers left of the spire which avoids both cliff bands. Look for the large boulder just off the road to find the trails start.
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