Castleton Tower is on the right, The Priest and th...
Description
It is of the utmost importance that you bring a gym/sport climber with you to follow you on this routes, especially if they are European. Doing this will make this route an even more memorable experience. Trust me. Additionally, do the route in the winter. You can get 1/2 price motel rooms in Moab and the crowds won't be there.
To reach the route, follow the directions to Castleton Tower. Take the trail and head to the left (North) side of the tower to bypass the short cliff band. It should be noted that this cliff band is fun to down-climb in the dark, so you may not want to miss it. The route is the big fat (as in there is no way in hell to miss it) dihedral on the right side (South?) as you approach the tower.
P1 - this is a relatively short 5.easy pitch that starts at a dihedral crack system, goes up about 20 feet to a big ledge, head for a fatty dihedral, that puts you onto another almost as big ledge, takes you to another short fatty and sends you to a belay at yet another big ledge.
P2 - head up to the next obvious crack/dihedral system. It is weird and is more or less a double crack system. You'll figure-out how to do it. This pitch also takes a couple of bomber medium to large stoppers towards the top. At the end of this pitch, you will be placed at a ledge with a bolted belay. Oh yeah, its honest 5.8.
P3 - this is the business (true 5.9). Most of it is wide. All I can say is don't get tunnel vision at the crux, which, as I mentioned has a bolt near it. If you are a runt like me, you can squeeze into the chimney after the crux and feel secure. This pitch is where I got to hear my German friend curse in two languages - it was awesome. Don't blow the exit moves. You arrive at a bolted belay.
P4 - you can either do 5.7 face or the 5.similar chimney to the left. Definately due the chimney if someone in your party is not a trad climber. You can easily watch them flail. This pitch is not too long compared to the 2nd and 3rd. There is an anchor just below the summit. You'll have to pee by now, so go ahead and get on the summit (on belay of course).
We did this thing in 3 raps. From the top anchor, rap to the end of the 2nd pitch. From there go to the top of the 1st pitch. You know the rest.
Note: You can and should back-up every belay. Also, there is calcite all up and down this route. I hate calcite - except for one place where you agree with me.
Protection
A standard rack will work fine on this route. If you are a little squeamish, then you could bring Big Bros, size 5-6 Friends and/or color-coded 2x4s cut to different lengths. There are a couple of bolts on the crux pitch, so don't despair. Bring 2 ropes to rappel.
Feel free to blow the exit moves on pitch three if you really want to. There is a good crack in the back of the chimney, and there is also a horizontal, both of which take small cams.
Big gear is basically just extra weight on the crux pitch, but there are several places, including just before and just after the crux, where you can place small cams behind chockstones. But definitely bring a number four friend or camalot for P2! I followed this pitch, and thought it was harder than the crux, which I led!
Descent: with two 200 foot ropes, you can rap the North face from bolted anchors in two raps (3 raps with 50-M ropes). This is also a good alternative if people are coming up the Kor route.
To provide balance to the two previous comments, I found the third pitch to be harder than the second (I led both a few days ago.) P2 is more sustained in difficulty, but the crux of P3 is more difficult than anything on P2.
Rack: 1 each cams blue TCU to #4 Camalot. Half set of nuts (every other one). Runners and QDs. I found this route to be considerably more difficult than the North Chimney.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Oct 31, 2001
I followed both pitches(I suck), but I found the second pitch much harder than the third. I hung a few times on the second, and really didn't think the third was that hard(and I always flail on wide 5.9). I did think the third is very beta intensive however-I watched my leader work through the crux for a *long* time, so I was armed with perfect beta for the move.
Ben, are you serious, why would you need to back up the belays on this route (bomber bolts)? It is a rap route, after all. And the calcite is great, it can be slippery, but it forms face holds which make the crux much easier. It also forms a hard layer which protects the softer sandstone. Would you rather be groveling up some sandy, flared, decomposing squeeze chimney?
George, it is a good practice to back-up a belay when you can. I also like to back-up the anchors on rappel and have the fat guy go first. I'll agree that most of the bolts on the Kor-Ingalls are pretty good, but you just never know. What can I say - I'm a safety nazi? Also, I've crowbarred bolts easily out of more solid sandstone in the SE US, so the softer stuff in Utah has my attention. Finally, one last thing I should mention to those of you climbing on this softer sandstone - don't lean outward on anchors here.
You're right it never hurts to be extra safe. True, it is sandstone, but I always think of Castleton as some of the most solid sandstone in Utah (particularly since it has that calcite layer). It's like granite compared to some of the other sandstone I've climbed on (like the Fischers)!
My partner and I hadn't even planned on climbing this when we did...but after being literally raced to the base of Ancient Art (our originally intended route) by another party who absolutely had to get there first, we decided to climb Castleton instead. Thinking we'd need big gear (#4.5 and #5 Camalots and/or Bigbros) which we'd left at home, we almost changed our mind. But as someone mentioned before, they would've only gotten in the way. I'd definitely bring a #3.5 and a #4 for the second pitch, and a screamer for at least one of the old bolts at the crux. I had also expected the crux to be a heinous grunt, but it turned out to be fun and pretty much all face climbing and stemming. I watched the second of the party in front of us try to climb the crux more like a chimney, falling multiple times. As for the second pitch, my partner thought it was harder than the crux, which I can see, as it's a bit tricky and more sustained. Regardless, it's definitely a fun route to an amazing summit in one of the most beautiful places on earth.
This climb is quite nice. I agree that at least up to a #3 camalot is good to bring. The third pitch really doesn't require much big gear. Leave the #5's and the Big Bros at home.
One more thing, stay near the outside of the chiminey on the last pitch. Although it is very easy, "the Deuce" Dawson and I had a humerous (for me) and painful (for him) experience. The Deuce was leading and decided to climb too far into the chiminey. Before he realized it, the chimney was too tight to slide out of and constricted above his head. The only way out was to go back down. The Deuce began a groveling slide back down when a #3 cam got wedged between a flake and his balls. "AAAGGHHH !!*#*!%*!&!!!!!!" hollered the Deuce. Five minutes later, now thouroghly castrated, he reclimbed the deceivingly simple chimney. Apparently I did not learn from the Deuce's misfortune, and I found myself sliding back down to reclimb the outtermost lip of the chiminey. My big head and butt could not be mashed down enough to fit through the constriction at the top. Once again, don't go too deep into the chimney on the last pitch. While it may be completely obvious to everyone else, give your balls a break.
In response to Aaron's comment about the pro on pitch three:
After clipping the bolt at the crux of the pitch, there is no pro for the next 50 ft. to the top. The only possible gear would be a large big bro. One exception may exist however. I am told by a grizzled veteran of the desert that there does exist deep in the recesses of the crack a small Alien placement. It's supposed to be somewhere behind the big chockstone that one stands upon after completing the crux.
Totally wrong! 1) you can back up the last bolt w/ a small alien behind a chockstone; 2) just after completing the crux, there is another small alien behind a chockstone (seemed pretty good) 3) I seem to remember a fixed sling somewhere after the crux, though I'm not sure. 4) after getting into the final chimney before the belay, there is a crack running up the back (on the left) which will yet again take small camming units, a bit blind but seemingly good, and finally 5) before commiting to the exit move out of the chimney onto the belay ledge, a horizontal crack offers a good small/medium friend.
Many of these placements are difficult to make, but worthwhile if you are feeling insecure (e.g., I placed the alien to back up the bolt, but clipping it was a bitch, so I ended up just going for it, but it certainly can be done).
Take it from someone who was challenged by the pitch!You don't need to be a grizzled vet to see these placements, they're not that hidden...
A little argumentative there AC. I thought the point here was to relate OPINIONS based on our own personal EXPERIENCE with the route. I'm glad you sewed it up. If I'd have fallen from the top of the pitch I would have taken a 120 footer.
"after clipping the bolt at the crux, there is no pro for the next 50 feet to the top. The only possible gear would be a large big bro."
No disrespect, but you offered that as fact, not opinion, as if it were obvious and beyond debate. But it's just not true! Fact is, there are several good placements that would probably hold a fall, particularly the ones near the end of the pitch (well beyond the rumored site of the legendary alien) are very good and not difficult to place. While admittedly we're not talking about firing in friends at Indian Creek, I think it's very misleading to suggest with an authoratitive tone that a fall will likely result in a hundred-plus footer. If I had read your comment before doing the climb I'm sure I never would have done it!
I'm sorry to sound so argumentative, but I think you do people (particularly 9+/10- leaders) a disservice by being so dismissive of the possibilities for gear. When you lead well above the grade of a pitch, it's easy to overlook stuff like that.
Charles, You are right. I didn't expect any gear besides the big bros so I didn't look for it. If it hadn't been cold, maybe I wouldn't have minded spending 5 min placing one, but I just kept climbing instead. Message to all future ascentionists: There is good pro. Do this route.
I would also agree that P2 seemed a bit harder to lead. The climbing wasn't really all that hard, just kinda awkward or something. I had to hang twice on it, but did P3 without too much trouble. There is pretty good gear on P3 after the bolt, mostly TCU's. I also placed a couple big cams on the OW section, and used a couple screamers for the bolts. Very fun route though.
An interesting follow-up to Chris and my little spat above: a friend of mine (who has been a solid, safe trad leader for many years and done many alpine and other "adventure" routes--however, this was his first tower attempt) took a 60 foot fall onto the topmost bolt on this crux pitch!! He hadn't placed any gear after the bolt--I don't know whether he noticed the small cam placements and ignored them, or didn't notice them, as he just told me over e-mail.
All I can say is, look for those gear placements at the top of that final chimney, they are definitely solid and will make the 60 footer a 2-10 footer. Incidentally, he was unhurt, aside from bruises & cuts!
Rapping - you can rap the route with a single 60m. Green's guide is ambiguous about this, but it will definitely (but just barely) reach. Use appropriate judgement regarding other parties on the route.
A few comments... first, what is up with pitch 1?? that's the hardest 5.4 squeeze chimney I've ever seen. Both my partner and I should pitch 3 was definitely more difficult and sustained than P2. P3 protection above the bolt was clipping a ratty sling and then a yellow alien in the back of the final squeeze chimney.
The screw oval at the top of P3 is OPEN and BENT - DO NOT USE. We rapped off a leaver biner, but I fear for the party that doesn't notice the condition. It should definitely be replaced.
Myke, are you sure you went the easiest way on pitch 1? I recall moving up and right, then back left into the main line of the crack (up an easy chimney). It couldn't have been too bad because I have free soloed this pitch, and I am a wimp without a rope.
Just a few quick questions to anyone who wants to answer. Does the route get crowded in the spring, say around March? What is the best time to start off from the campground? Ok that's all. Thanks.
No need for the 4.5 or 5 Camalot, but 2 #4s for the second pitch is helpful. Many placements for smaller cams along the route. The crux of the third pitch is a bit tricky, but all there. Look for holds on the white calcite section. Several smaller holds lead to two bomber hand holds only a few feet past the crux. There ae two more bolt inside the crack. After that, there are plenty of spots for small cams up to the belay. Easy to find good pro, but don't pass up any opportunites to put something in. I never used any nuts, nor the aforementioned large Camalots .
RAPPEL: We rapped down the north side in 2 raps with 2 60m 8.8s. This rappel is dead vertical and kind of spooky to start, so pay attention!
Regarding first pitch, I believe we encountered two chimneys... the first down lower which is shown as 5.8 (and about right by my estimate) in the Bjornstad guidebook and as 5.7 in the Supertopo, and a second chimney a bit higher which is the 5.4 chimney we all hear about. I believe the lower chimney is avoidable by heading right around it, up a crack which, according to the Green guidebook goes at 5.5. Please note that I've said "I believe" twice here. I stayed in right most crack on the second pitch and got good pro, and found TCU placements inside the offwidth on P3. We used two ropes, a 60m and a 50m, and made three raps. Only one party was in front of us and they bivied at the base, and only one party followed us... everyone else, a steady line, was on the North Chimney!
The Falcon Guide to Utah claims you can rap the North Face in 4 100 foot raps. We used a 70 meter rope which did not make it from the 1st to 2nd rap station. It made it to a protected ledge about 20 feet above the next rap station. We delicately rapped off a conveniently placed bolt, leaving a locker to get the next rap station. We did pass a 2 bolt anchor w/o chains before the 1st rap station. We may have not used the correct rap line off the North Face. Anyone know if there is another rap line we should have taken?
Did this 4.17.04. Gear suggestions are always relative, but if you're a solid 5.10 climber then you won't need very much gear. I didn't bring anything bigger then a 3.5 Friend and I did wish, when I was 15 feet above my last piece on pitch 2, that I had a #4 Camalot. Otherwise, a single set of cams is plenty. The first bolt on pitch 3 sticks out about an inch. The other two bolts are decent. There is a ratty sling after the last bolt on pitch 3. Other then a brief bit of squeezing at the beginning and end of pitch 3, I stemmed the whole crux. Two 60 meter ropes will get you down the north face (you actually are rappelling down Castles Buring, not the North Face). If you only have one 60 meter rope, I think you want to rap to the bomber anchors at the beginning of the bolt line).
Unrelentingly wide and polished and containing a suprising amount of loose rock, K/I is the worst climb on Castleton. It's hard to believe the numerous parties who queue up for this route actually enjoy the climbing. If you're looking for wide, the offwidths and chimneys on West Face, North Chimney, Arrowhead, Burning Sun and even North Face are all more enjoyable than K/I's.
This climb seemed a lot easier and more fun when I first did it in 1982.
Climbed it on 2/13/06. I carried doubles in BD #.5-#4 & 1-#5 with 1-60m rope. Be sure you knot the ends of your rope for the rappels. Last rappel on 1st pitch does not reach the ground, so you have to down climb 2 or 3 moves to get to the bottom. An excellent route, but not for a beginning offwidth climber. The veiws are superb from the top. Climb in the winter and avoid the crowds.
By Mark Michaels From: Midvale, UT Oct 16, 2006 rating: 5.9+ PG13
I concur with others that say large gear is dead weight on this one. I #4 camalot might work on the 2nd pitch, but I recall sewing it up with smaller gear. There is adequate protection in the 3rd pitch chimney, including a small cam or medium nut in the very back just below the top. Miss that last placement and you'll be trembling on the awkward, exposed finish. I thought there was more dirt and loose rock by far on the N. Chimney.
Standing on the summit is quite incredible and might be worth the trip. But for me, it's hard to see how this can be considered a "classic". The climbing is not that great. Neighboring routes such as Fine Jade or Jah-Man offer FAR better experiences.
eric i couldn't agree more. but you don't have to got over to the rectory or sister superior for a better route just walk around the tower to the north face.
There are definitely 2 "chimneys" on P1, the first one is a hard squeeze , quite tight and slick as f*** because of the calcite drips (5.8 for sure) and the second wider with feet (lots easier). If you go around the block to avoid the 1st one, watch the rope drag and be ready for some insecure moves and a bit of a run out. Overall, P1 = meh. P2 is awesome! I still can't stay in the main crack (wide, might have to walk the #4) and have to do a hard bouldery traverse into the double crack to the right after climbing about a body length. Sweet lieback/hands with great gear but increasingly slick feet until you can snag a horn that will drop about 2" when you weigh it... Gets your heart running but it's solid. P3 is sick, quite spooky but there are only a few insecure moves on bolts and a bunch of solid small pieces in between (I placed #1 & #2 C3s and .4 & .75). Leave your large pieces and doubles at the belay, rack on the sides so you don't get too tangled in the offwidth, clip a slung block, do a couple hard moves to dive in the squeeze and get back out after the 3rd bolt. Good crimps on the calcite, wide stem between the arete and the left face, lots of air all around you, a few hard insecure moves and you can be back to the safety of the squeeze. Another exciting moves get you out to the belay. The last pitch is short but great, another chimney off the belay for good measure then a sweet flake with great gear brings you to the top. Rap the North Face with 2 60m (watch the ends, the 2nd rap is long) and check out the route, it looks stellar. But burly.
Castleton Tower
RSS Feed
