North Face Original Pitch 1 

FA:  Jimmy Dunn & Doug Snively, 20 March 1974 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 130 feet Views: 392 page views Submitted By: david goldstein on May 2, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Is there a climb anywhere that has three independent variations to its first pitch that are better the North Face of Castleton's?

Star rating is compared to other Castleton 1 pitch climbs.

The rightmost of the three N. Face variations.

Climb fun steep 5.10 hands and laybacking with rests for about 60'. The crux comes at the top of a 10' right facing corner, a technical lieback exiting on to a slab.At the top of the slab, clip a bolt in a corner then make an improbable move to establish yourself in the corner. Easy but insecure -- if you blow it, you fall onto the slab -- climbing leads to a fixed pin, and an easy face traverse left. Steep 5.9ish cracks lead to a traverse left to the anchor.

Continue up N Face or, Sacred Ground or rappel to the ground. A single 70m rope just makes it.

Protection 

Wires, 2ea TCUs, 3ea cams to 2". Long slings.