P.Ross on P8 of the Bjornstad Traverse. Crossing t...
Description
AKA The Girdle Traverse of Castleton
The climb has some wild situations, and perhaps an unusual experience for localized climbers. I would suggest that before you knock it you try it... The climb starts at the Kor- Ingalls. The traverse uses 4 pitches of established climbs and 5 new pitches.
P1. Pitch 1 Kor route. 5.6 140' P2. Move belay to right to join P2 Arrowhead Left. Climb this pitch to top of the Arrowhead(junction with Stardust Cowboy). 5.10. 100' P3. The long bolt ladder of Stardust is followed, then up to the right to belay overlooking North Chimney. 110' P4. Climb down 20', then over the massive chockstone near the top of P2 on the North Chimney. Traverse right across the slab to the bolt rap/lower, and swing right onto ledges and 3 bolt belay at the top of pitch 2 on the North Face route. 110' P5. Up ledges to the right, then climb down 12' to a beautifully exposed narrow slab traverse line (some of the bolts used to protect this pitch need hangers, nut, and washers in place - bring a half inch wrench, or use wires). Follow a slab crossing the Sun, Moon, and Stars route to an anchor overlooking The West Face route. 110' 5.9+ C1 (With pro now in place it should go all free) P6. Lower 50' to an anchor on the West Face. P7. Follow a thin crack up and right to the belay around the corner. C1 5.3 P8. The long exposed crack is followed across the West Face to a belay overlooking the Kor route. 80' 5.9 C1 P9. From just up right of the belay, lower down a few feet to a horizontal crack. Follow it and then lower off into the Kor route. C1 170'
Paul Ross, Jeff Pheasant.
Protection
Two sets of cams from Metolius 00 to #4 friend, many biners for the Webster bolt ladder. Some stoppers.
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