Rich Schroeder on the 3rd pitch of the North Face ...
Description
I've done this route a couple of times, the last time on New years eve just before the millenium. To reach, hike up to the base of Castleton and traverse left until you are directly below the North Face.
P1- Climb a perfect wide hands crack in a right facing dihedral to a thin lieback on white calcite up higher. Then climb up ledges to the belay ledge. (5.11b)
P2- Climb a very nice handcrack past a short wide section to nice ledge and the belay anchors. (5.10)
P3- Climb up wider cracks to the summit. The last pitch is scary and physical.
To descend, rappel the route. I have made it down in two long raps with 60 meter ropes. I think it is normally done in three rappels though. Another option is to rappel the Kor-Ingalls route, but it can be crowded and there is more of a chance of your ropes getting stuck.
An interesting point of history. If you look at the anchors on the summit where you start the rappel of the North Face, one of the bolt hangers is white and says "Wedding 199?" My friend Elmo performed a wedding on the summit of Castleton sometime in the nineties, and they put that hanger on one of the bolts. A very cool place to have a wedding eh?
Protection
2 sets of Camalots with extra #3. A set if stoppers.
This is such a spectacular route! It is complete with excellent exposure, very sustained and varied from fingers to off-width.
The first pitch is definitely the hardest because it is so sustained and long. I brought three #3 Camalots, but most people want more for the first pitch. I would have liked to have a 4.5 or 5 Camalot for the last pitch, but most of the hard sections are secure.
It is very shady all day long, which makes this a good route to do in late spring of maybe even summer when it is too hot for other routes. If you do this climb in the fall or early spring, be prepared to dress very warm.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Apr 26, 2002 rating: 5.11b
The last (3rd) pitch is a little runout, but particularly near the top, you can get stoppers in a crack withing the OW. Thus, it is best to take a set of nuts and a good number of 2' runners on this route.
An optional first pitch, or rather the original first pitch starts 30' to the right in another right facing dihedral. This goes at 11b, and is more difficult than the hand crack. Liebacking thin fingers, ends at the same belay. Both have excellent climbing.
If you have a 70m rope, you can do the rap off the north face in four single-rope rappels. The first pitch of "North Face" is probably around 120-130 feet, and a 70m just BARELY puts you on the ground. -Paul Nelson
When I climbed this route a few years ago, I had doubles up to #3 camalot and then one #3.5, and #4. If/when I climb this route again, I will bring more #3's for pitch one but the rest of my rack seemed sufficient. This route is one of the best i have done.
Awesome route on the most famous tower in Utah. I disagree with the grade creep going on here. This route is stiff, for sure, but 11c? Not a chance. When I think 11c I think Crack of Doom at City of Rocks, or Atlantis in the Needles. Both of which are miles harder than this route. Do not be intimidated by this route, get on it! Good gear and awesome exposure. 11a (maybe)
By Nathan Furman From: Salt Lake City, Utah Oct 10, 2007 rating: 5.11a
Climbed this gorgeous route on October 8th, 2007. It was splitter!
On the first pitch, we chose to go right and climb the undercling/lie back instead of the finger crack on the left. I would call it .11a and super, super good. A little thoughtful and very airy.
I would have liked 5 #3 camalots for the first pitch. We only had 3 and ended up shuffling them a bunch, which worked fine but was kind of a pain in the butt. Probably added to the pump factor a bit.
The second pitch was surprisingly hard for .10a.
The third pitch was marvelous. It looks super gnarley, but rarely did I have to do much OW technique. It was all there and climbed beautifully. Awesome route! We had a couple 4.5 camalots and placed them both.
I climbed straight up the finger crack on the first pitch and felt it was about 11a. The hand crack on the second pitch felt much harder than 10a, maybe closer to 10b/c.
By Will Butler From: Boulder, CO Oct 22, 2007 rating: 5.11-
Amazing line. I was suspicious about my friend's heed to bring four #3s for the first pitch but was very glad that I did. Think Indian Creek splitter. Even with this gear there were times when I pushed pieces up 20 ft. If you were trying to sew it up I'd bring 5-6 BD #3s as well as a #4 for this long and spectacular pitch.
I rapped the north face with one 70m. The first rap brought us to a ledge about 15-20' above the anchors, and an exposed downclimbed ensued...we also left half the rack on top and were forced to simul Kor-Ingalls to get it. Kor-Ingalls is way easy to rap with one 70m.
Castleton Tower
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