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The Phallus
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North Face 
Phallus, The 

North Face 

5.9 C3 R

   

FA: Peter Geyser
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: 5.9 C3 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet, Grade II
Season: desert season (year round)
Views: 132 page views

Submitted By: Matt Pickren on Jan 22, 2009


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Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park

Description 

This is the same route that Todd Gordon has posted. The only difference is that it can now, and maybe has already?, go clean. I only thought it important to post a new route because it felt slightly more serious than C2, which some may mistakingly assume after reading A2, that was the old rating prior to D.P. (the nailing ban).

The R sections felt like the first 30 feet when nothing inspired all that much confidence. As well as after free climbing right after two bolts. The fall looked relatively clean onto 2 okay looking bolts, I just wasn't feeling like testing that theory.

Overall, thin and challenging on soft, dirty rock.


Location 

Look for obvious dong. Climb thin "crack" on North west-corner.


Protection 

Lots of small gear. Brass and aluminum offsets, tri-cams and small (black thru red x3) aliens. Anchor on top is surprisingly good. With fresh red cordelette equalized as off 1-18-09.