Pitch 1 - Begin with a shoulder stand from your partner or by using a somewhat sketchy fixed pin with a broken eye hole. Continue past another fixed pin to a beautiful clean crack that arcs around forming the "C-Dunt Traverse". At the end of the arc, turn a couple roof/corners on big gear. The second of these roofs is wide, awkward and very strenuous, even if you're aiding... which you will be. Continue to the notch and a two-bolt anchor. (5.9, A1, C1+)
Pitch 2 - Begin up a crack a few feet to the left of the anchor and gain a small shelf. From here the original party nailed up a thin and soft crack to an flaring, horizontal ledge/crack and then placed a bolt on the bulging wall above. (After I placed five crappy pieces in the shelf at my feet and spent 15 minutes looking at my options for leaving the shelf, I proudly called for the 10 foot stick clip.) Pass a blown out bat hook hole and from the highest bolt, tension traverse right to the anchor. (C1+ with a stick clip, originally rated A2 though it seemed harder)
Pitch 3 - Climb the soft crack above the anchor on pins and cams passing some fixed pieces along the way. Save some small pins and a little mojo for the final moves onto the summit. (A2)
Location
30 minute hike southeast from the Naked Lady Boulder near camp.
Protection
Two sets of cams up to 4 Camalot with an extra .5 and .75. One #5 and #6 Camalot A decent selection of pitons less than 1". A couple rivet hangers. Stick Clip? (there is a blown bathook hole on pitch three)
Add PhotoPhotos of Burning Shoes (a.k.a. Shattered Illusions of Love)
Pitch two. The crack above is pretty spicy stuff f...
Tower 143
RSS Feed
