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The 100-yard Wall
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Doil, The 
Fledgling 
Nutcracker 

Fledgling 

5.4

   

FA: Terre Lashier, Steve Swanke, January 1st, 1987
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 85 feet
Views: 242 page views

Submitted By: Darren Knezek on Nov 3, 2007


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Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park

Description 

This is a crack behind a triangular-shaped flake/tower. It begins with a wide section down low and gets a little thinner the higher you go, there's quite a few holds on the wall and the flake that make the upward movement much easier. It gets wide again at the top, but with a little less quality rock on the flake. Clip a set of drilled angle anchors and stand on top of the flake and soak up the view of Arches! You can rap back down the flake, but make sure and give your rope a good tug to not get caught in the crack. (People have rapped over the front of the flake, but it puts rope grooves in the flake.)Desert Rock I gives a good description of the climb except where it says to downclimb the route. It has anchors and is easy to rap


Location 

If you're looking at The 100-yard Wall, this route is on the next level up with The Doil. The Doil looks like a KFC drumstick standing on it's end and to the left about 50 yards are three small flake/towers leaning against the wall. Fledgling is the middle tower and is on the left side of the flake. No one can see you climbing it from the road until you're at the top.


Protection 

A single set of cams should suffice with a larger one (5") down low. A couple of 2' slings to get rid of any rope drag and Quickdraws for the anchor.



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By Darren Knezek
Nov 3, 2007

When I did this route I thought I should just solo it since the description said to downclimb the route and I couldn't see anchors from the bottom. The start felt almost as hard as the 5.8, The Doil, to the right, but then the climb got a little easier the higher you got until a couple of loose holds at the end. Near the end I saw the anchors and tagged them and stood on the flake. A really fun climb with a fantastic view. Plus, the downclimb turned out a little easier than going up. If you've done the other two climbs here you might as well throw in this one too.