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Science Friction 

5.9+ PG13

   
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FA: Mike Baker, solo. (5-1-98)
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 160 feet
Views: 2,368 page views

Submitted By: DaveB on Oct 19, 2007


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Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park

BETA PHOTO: Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...


Description 

A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...)

Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.

Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course.


Location 

Quarter mile right of the the Naked Lady Boulder (cowboy art). The tallest section of Sunshine Wall. Route (bolted) begins low center of face, right of large boulder, and stays left of obvious crescent/sickle feature mid-wall.


Protection 

12-13 draws. Bolts, drilled pitons.
Anchors.
Double-rope rappel.



Photos of Science Friction Slideshow Add Photo
Stepping high into right-angling seam (hidden from view).

Stepping high into right-angling seam (hidden from...

Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over the lip, there are two or three bolts till the anchor, a little run out, but since the grade is low it isn't so bad.

BETA PHOTO: Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over th...

Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall.<br /><br />This is the anchors for Science Friction to the right of Melanoma Shuffle. Make sure you have two ropes.

Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall...

Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction Melanoma is to the left. Super fun climb because of the length (You need two ropes to safley rap). A little run out at the end but really not that bad due to the grade.

Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction M...

Here is the run out section to the anchors.

BETA PHOTO: Here is the run out section to the anchors.

Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper seam.<br /><br />(Note the "best smile money can buy.")

Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper ...

Getting started.

Getting started.


Comments on Science Friction Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 7, 2007

Yikes!

By John Ross
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Dec 7, 2007

Under "Protection" add Kevlar vest and helmet!

By Dave Fiorucci
From: Boulder, Colorado
Dec 7, 2007

See bomb proof anchor discussion. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/climbing_gear_discussion/bo>>>>>