The guide books say a single set of friends for this... Thats possible, but its also possible to solo it.... just don't.
P1 = The first pitch is the business. Climb a soft OW section with no gear to your first placement... like 10- for 20 ft. Continue up a degrading crack that varies from fingers to armbars. A pin protects the widest section. It looks easy because the wall is featured, but the reality is that the rock is so soft you could skate off at anytime. The crux is transitioning into fingers from the bombay, though there are a number of hard sections. After about 170 ft. you reach a ledge with a pin and a horizontal that takes friends (3-3.5). You want a cordolette to string it together. P2 = Climb out a bulge on handjams... its fun. The pitch is only about 25 feet to the anchor. With lots of slings you could run these two together, but there would be drag issues. Best to break it up. P3 = from the anchor do a boulder problem, soft, to the summit, then down climb. It's about 15 feet.
1 big rap on two 60's puts you back at the base. The Arches Task Force replaced the anchors with ASCA 1/2 inchers and chain in September of 07.
Location
North face of Devil Dog Spire in Arches National Park
Protection
When I can get a couple solid pieces together in Entrada, I like to do so. That means a double rack might work, but we used up most of a triple. Friends .75-3.5 X 3 each 4 - 6 two each You need two 60's to get down
When I looked up at this I thought it would easily go free. 10' off the ground I realized that I was on entrada and that getting to the top would require pulling on lots of gear. The view from the summit was beautiful!
Well, whatever it is rated I sure enjoyed the climb! We named it ID because we were listening to the song and hated to add bolts to anything especially on that first pitch but our ropes kept getting stuck. Also Charlie kept telling us how he would simul rap off sprires in Devils Kitchen but we placed rap anchors anyway.
"Warning lights are flashing down at quality control..
Somewhere in the corridors someone was heard to sneeze. Goodness me, could this be industrial disease?
The watchdogs got rabies, the foremans got fleas, And everyones concerned about industrial disease.
Some blame the management, some the employees, And everybody knows its the industrial disease
On itv and bbc they talk about the curse, Philosophy is useless, theology is worse. History boils over, theres an economic freeze, Sociologists invent words that mean industrial disease
I go down to speakers corner, I'm thunderstruck. They got free speech, tourists, police in trucks. Two men say theyre jesus, one of them must be wrong. Theres a protest singer singing a protest song - he says 'They wanna have a war to keep us on our knees. They wanna have a war to keep their factories. They wanna have a war to stop us buying japanese. They wanna have a war to stop industrial disease'.
Meanwhile the first jesus says 'Id cure it soon, Abolish Monday mornings and Friday afternoons.' The other ones on a hunger strike, hes dying by degrees. How come jesus gets industrial disease?
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