Pitch one traverses onto a ledge on the SW side of the tower. Pitch 2 goes up an easy chimney, to 5.9 hands, then to 5.10+ OW and a 5.9 squeeze at the top.
Location
Located in the remote NW corner of Arches. This tower is the 2nd tower you come to.....(The Marching Men are all lined up in a row.)
Protection
Outside of regular standard desert rack, bring the big stuff. Lots of big stuff. Bring your sac as well, for the climbing is bold.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 5, 2007
I climbed this route in April 1984, with Diane Stang belaying. This day was a day to remember. First we got the car stuck on a steep section of rock on the drive to the climb;..THAT was epic;...car jack, hours of sweating it out in the baking sun. Then came the climb.....tipped out #4 friends (largest piece I had)...then I just had to maddog it to the top. I thought I was going to perish; I really did. Not only was the climbing hard, scary, and unprotected, but I was all sweaty too from the heat that day; twas a nightmare of fear, sweat, sandstone and profanity. Diane sat belaying me, with a t-shirt over her head to keep from getting sunburned;... she didn't say one word to me. On the drive out, we had to mow through massive sand dunes in my 2-wheel drive truck;...more fear and paranoia of my car getting swallowed up by a giant sandstone. It was a day to remember. I believe ours was the 2nd ascent of the tower. I loved it.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Jun 10, 2007