This climb starts on where Nutcracker ends. It ascents a formation that looks a bit like a drumstick. Stem, hands, chimney to the top and rap to the base from slings on a chockstone. Then walk off left.
Location
Starts where Nutcrack ends; on the left side of the 100-yard wall.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 3, 2007
I did this climb (along with the Nutcracker) in the early 1980's, with Doug Smith. I found the climbing O K, but the rock was rather sandy. Still;...there aren't too many "easy" , short climbs near the road;..here's one to do. Combined with Nutcracker, you got 2 pitches. Try it on for size.
I thought that this climb was about as good as 5.8 gets for the desert. A few big blocks that lead up to a killer hand crack in a chimney of sorts. Great gear the entire way and a small training climb for the easy 5.10's at Indian Creek.