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The 100-yard Wall
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Doil, The 
Fledgling 
Nutcracker 

The Doil 

5.8

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Views: 381 page views

Submitted By: toddgordon on May 3, 2007


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Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park

Description 

This climb starts on where Nutcracker ends. It ascents a formation that looks a bit like a drumstick. Stem, hands, chimney to the top and rap to the base from slings on a chockstone. Then walk off left.


Location 

Starts where Nutcrack ends; on the left side of the 100-yard wall.


Protection 

standard desert rack



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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 3, 2007

I did this climb (along with the Nutcracker) in the early 1980's, with Doug Smith. I found the climbing O K, but the rock was rather sandy. Still;...there aren't too many "easy" , short climbs near the road;..here's one to do. Combined with Nutcracker, you got 2 pitches. Try it on for size.

By Darren Knezek
Nov 3, 2007
rating: 5.8

I thought that this climb was about as good as 5.8 gets for the desert. A few big blocks that lead up to a killer hand crack in a chimney of sorts. Great gear the entire way and a small training climb for the easy 5.10's at Indian Creek.