By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 3, 2007
| Hello, Brad. I'll try to be more specific with this route.....I did this route in April of 1995...so it was awhile ago. ...our team was myself, Dana Adler, Cyndie Bransford. We called Dana "pappi" because he was older than us! I know Kyle and Allison Sheets did the first ascent in 1987;...I don't remember talking to Kyle about this route;.....The last time I went climbing with Kyle was in 1995;...he wasn't too into climbing by that time, and after 1995, didn't even seem to want to talk about climbing much;...we still remained friends, but talked about other stuff, played music together, etc.... He has been a very good friend to me over the years, and a inspiration and damn good climber too. I miss hanging out with him. Anyways,...they rated the climb 5.11d A2;....and Kyle climbed that hard;....but not me....we aided anything that was harder than mid-5.10, I'm sure. On the first pitch, I place a small cam under a roof, , stood on it, and a large section of the roof broke off under my blubber;......the piece pulled, and when the rope went tight, the FIRST piece the rope went through just off the ground pulled too....giving me MORE rope;...I fell aways and actually was not stopped by the rope, but by my body getting wedged into a tight chimney section.....ouch.....that hurt and I got a bit banged up.......but the rest of the climb went uneventful.....I remember the climb being fairly mellow and fun;...I can't remember if the climb went to the top or not;...it went to the top of SOMETHING, I'm sure. I dont' remember the rappel route either....sorry;....The last 3 years of no sleep with our three infants killed brain cells. Park ave. section of Arches is so beautiful, and the short approach I find appealing, because I have a lazy side too me as well. You get to show off for all the touristos that are hiking down Park Ave. We had a great time, and I liked the climb alot....it's a good one. I don't think it gets done all that much;...which is cool. Desert Rock has the recommended gear list. If you do this climb, you will love it! Does that help any? |