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The Three Gossips
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Be There or Be Talked About 
Lyon Trautner Route 
Speak No Evil 
West Face 

Lyon Trautner Route 

5.11

   

FA: Charles Lyon, Todd Trautner, 1981.
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Views: 144 page views

Submitted By: toddgordon on Apr 30, 2007


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Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park

Cyndie Bransford on Lyon Trautner.
Photo by Todd G...



Description 

Climb the crack system just to the right of West Face Route, for three pitches.


Protection 

Standard rack, lots of small.



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Cyndie Bransford.<br />Photo by Todd Gordon.

Cyndie Bransford.
Photo by Todd Gordon.


Getting into P2.

Getting into P2.


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By eric dixon
From: Durango, CO
Sep 15, 2007

Despite the abundance of information provided above, I thought I would contribute anyway.

Pitch 1 - Start by climbing the right side of a flake that takes you to a short right-facing corner. After the corner, continue up and right on a ramp with a handcrack. Belay from fixed anchor. (5.10+)

Pitch 2 - Climb the wide section up past a bad old bolt to the left of a pillar. Continue up to the top of the pillar. Belay from fixed anchor. (5.10)

Pitch 3 - Climb up the finger crack to the saddle between the Gossips. Belay from fixed anchor. (5.11 crux)

Pitch 4 - Traverse left to the anchor at the top of P2 of the West Face route.

Pitch 5 - Same as P3 of the West Face route.

Descent - Single rope rappel down final pitch. Then double rope rappel to the ground.