P1: Start on either side of a sandy flake. The FA climbed the left side of the flake at 5.7 and Harvey Carter climbed the right side on the second ascent at 5.8. We did the left side and found it quite hard for 5.7 and very loose and sandy. After scrambling up more choss to the top of the flake, climb a 5.9 fingercrack and make an awkward move left past an old hangerless bolt to the belay.
P2: Climb up left from the belay and do a fun, exposed move over a flake to a bolt ladder. This pitch can be freeclimbed at 5.10 or 5.11 depending on which guidebook you read. There are a couple of bad bolts and the holds are sandy but it looks reasonable to free, just scary with the bolts and rock quality. Then climb run out 5.4 to the summit. Rap anchors are in good condition. Two ropes get you down.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Sep 25, 2004
If you pull on gear on the last pitch, nothing is harder than 5.9 The 5.7 sand chimney is the crux of the route, but you can shove a 3 and/or a 3.5 camalot in where it pinches down.
Best to pull the knot past the first few bulges when you rap. We didn't, and had a hard time pulling the ropes.
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Oct 5, 2005
Having attempted this route in the later 90's and wimping out on the second pitch pitons and lack there of(I think I used upcoming darkness as my excuse then.) I was pleasantly surprised to see the new bolts. It changes the nature of the route a bit. For good or bad, I would consider this to now be one of the easier "known" towers in the desert. It can easily be aided at c1. On the first pitch, if you don't want to grovel, you can avoid the chimney by climbing on the right side of the flake. During the second pitch, there are two easy, but awkward, aid placements to reach the two pitons. Above is a very easy bolt ladder. The last thirty feet are very runout, but the climbing is probably in the 5.4 range. Enjoy the hike. The whole thing is a lot of fun.
I climbed this route this last spring. On the first pitch I climbed the left side, but not in the crack at first I climbed on the out side of the flake on really soft rock(not recommended). Also we only had one 60 meter rope that weekend and were fine rapping off of Dark Angel and the west face of Argon.
I took out two relics out of the top-anchor and replaced them with one half-inch rawl (one bolt took two light taps, the other a whack and then two taps)... equalized the various with desert matching rope (brown chain would be better). I put a picture up of the previous anchor material. There was so much tape through the various points that I couln't clip directly into the bolts. Gang, we now, as of a certain event in early May, have an access issue in Arches and Canyonlands. The bright colored cordage is a definite no-no. I put a picture of what I took out on this page but couldn't take one of what I left cus it was too dark. Anyway, we need to make an effort, each of us, to use desert colored stuff if we are backing things up. Just buy the brown stuff... and carry a lot of it so you can replace, rather than just add, if you feel its necessary.
The second pitch felt like 11a to me - short crux but hard to read. On the hike out we were stopped by a ranger and asked to produce our chalkbags! Turns out that colored chalk is mandatory - not just encouraged. We narrowly avoided being ticketed. The ranger reasoned that it would be bad if the Arches ended up looking like Potash Road - he has a point. Next time Ill leave the chalk bag in the car.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Apr 25, 2007
When I did this climb (with Lori Graf ) in Oct. of 1983, I found one of the bolts on the bolt ladder MISSING. I slammed a baby angle in the hole, tied it off, and proceded with the climb. We got our ropes stuck on the rappel, and I had to run back to the car to get jumars, run back, and ascend the rope and extend the anchor and un-stuck our rope. The first pitch seemed a bit sandy, and the run-out 5.4 seems uneventful. The climbing isn't too impressive, but the formation, summit, and whole experience is top notch! What a fantasic setting too;.....***** beauty all around! And a Bob Camps (Calif.) route to boot! (Rest in Peace, Bob....the climbing communtiy misses you dearly......)
"We got our ropes stuck on the rappel, and I had to run back to the car to get jumars, run back, and ascend the rope and extend the anchor and un-stuck our rope."
That's funny the same thing happened to me. The rope actually got bound up in the wear marks in the rock. Good thing the hike is nice.
A great hike, great views and a fun route. We chilled on the summit for some time taking in the views and the sunshine. the anchor has been lengthened so it's easy to pull. I can see it being epic if it weren't extended. bring webbing just incase. the rope that's up there won't last but maybe another year. i yarded on the bolts, but doesn't look to bad to free. it gets afternoon light, may be better to wait till then to free in winter. cold in the shade. 1 60m rope gets you to the ground. we carried a tag, but don't need it. classic work on the FA.
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