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The Pickle
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Standard Route 

Standard Route 

5.7 C1

   

FA: Cameron Burns & Benny Bach
Type: Aid
Consensus: 5.6 C1 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 90 feet
Views: 453 page views

Submitted By: Brad Brandewie on Feb 16, 2007


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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  • Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • This is a highly visible climb in an access sensitive area. Please be courteous and low key if you're going to climb this tower. Park in the lot next to the visitor's center and stay in washes when you leave the pavement. The tower is approached from the right when viewed from the road.

  • Ben Kiessel standing in front of the Standard Rout...


    Description 

    Follow the obvious bolt ladder past an intermediate anchor to a few free moves at the top.


    Protection 

    A dozen quickdraws and a few longer runners.



    Add Photo Photos of Standard Route
    Removing the large wad of slings from the anchor on top.

    Removing the large wad of slings from the anchor o...

    George Armstrong on The Pickle.<br />Todd Gordon collection.

    George Armstrong on The Pickle.
    Todd Gordon collec...


    Summit.<br />Photo: Todd Gordon collection.

    Summit.
    Photo: Todd Gordon collection.



    Add Comment Comments on Standard Route
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    By toddgordon
    From: Joshua Tree, California
    Apr 11, 2007

    The Pickle is sort of a mess;....I am partially responsible for this. From what I understand, this route was first done by Cam Burns and friends in May, 1987. We (G. Armstrong and I ) went up to do the route and found that all the bolts on the bolt ladder had been chopped (or knocked out/stripped). We re-established the bolt ladder (leaving the 16 pins in place!) , and re-vamped the top summit anchor, which was poor (Including using an ice climbing warthog!). I've never been a fan of poor anchors. This was done in April of 02. Unfortunately (regretably?), we added fixed gear to the 5.9 "unprotected" section, for we were not "brave" enough for this section. This was a difficult decision; the route was basically gone; in re-establishing this "climb", we climbed it as best we could, in the manner which we seemed reasonable to us. It's a gray area, especially re-establishing a climb which was funky to begin with. (Funky being the long bolt ladder, which really wasn't a locally warmly greeted style in 1987 in Moab, and the poor anchors on top is sort of lame-o too;....as well as the crowning touch with the 5.9 X sandy slab run-out) Should we have left the route chopped? Do we re-establish the route exactly as it was? What is up with the "poor anchor?" Anyways;...for what it's worth, the climb is now back, the fixed gear is now in-situ, the anchors are hopefully solid. For those who like to tick towers, this is a safely attainable summit. I'm not proud of this;...only trying to "lay the facts straight" about this climbs "re-birth."

    By John J. Glime
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Apr 29, 2007

    That is brave of you to admit Todd. The rap anchor is now super bomber, thanks to probably Sam Lightner?

    This is a silly climb really, but it is fun and easy, and is another tower. Perhaps the easiest tower in the Moab area? It is a very safe and secure solo. It is something to do if you have an hour or two to kill. Quick access from town, easy approach, etc.

    By cammo
    Jun 18, 2007

    I think it might help to know I told Kyle Copeland (in about 1989 or so) that the thing had a load of drilled angles in it. He was wanting some for a project, and I said he should go scarf those on the Pickle if he was desperate. Didn't think he'd actually do it. Then again, didn't think it would ever see another ascent. Anyway, that's that.
    Cammo

    By Sam Lightner, Jr.
    Jun 19, 2007

    Yeah, I beefed the anchor and cleaned the wad of tat off that was halfway down the face. The routes most reedemable quality, besides its ease of access, is that it is not facing the road and thus doesn't draw attention. As Arches tower climbs go, this one feels very "Potash Road".

    By cammo
    Apr 19, 2008

    Just to add a bit of credit where some is due, the FA was really Benny and Cam, not Cam and Benny. He led that unprotected top pitch late in the day (it was getting dark), and, at least when we did the FA, the thing was sandier than hell. I was pretty amazed by his lead. It was like climbing a frozen sand dune. Everything you touched came off. So, it's interesting that Todd added some new fixed gear to that pitch. Makes sense to me. Probably would to Benny, too. It might be a lot cleaner now with all these ascents so I can understand the 5.7 rating. Heck, you know how FAs in the desert go: if you live through it it's been a pretty good day....