Heart of the Desert is a quality thin hands to fists crack in a left facing dihedral on relatively good rock. The cruxes are at two wide pods roughly one-third and two-thirds of the way up the climb. Don't miss several stemming rests and a knee-cam no hands rest in one of the pods.
To get there, park at the Courthouse Parking area, walk across the street to the trail and look left down Park Avenue. On the left-hand wall, about a quarter mile away, you can make out the obvious dihedral of Heart of the Desert.
Protection
My rack (should have) consisted of one 0.75, two #1, three #2, four #3, and one #3.5 or #4 Camalots. Fixed anchors.
It's pretty good; someone should do the next pitch because it stops short shy of where it gets more exciting.
By markguycan From: flagstaff, az Mar 10, 2007 rating: 5.10a/b
I recall this route being excessively sandy. I remember seating a hex, then testing it only to have the crack discintegrate around it. I was very scared as I ran it out to the anchor. 'course I had less than half the recommended gear.
This is a superb pitch. Great hands (some fists, too, for me) and bomber gear. I would recomend a rack of Camalots from 1 to old 4 and Metolius 7 to 9. Some draws are nice to extend the placements.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Apr 27, 2007
Shortly after its first ascent (Jeff Widen, Aug. 1985), I had heard about this "Indian Creek" like crack climb. I went over with Dave Evans and the lovely Sonja Pasqal. It was a bit sandy at the time, and we wondered also about a climb that ended before the crack ended (the system continues on....), but it was really excellent and WAY fun!....Did I say how lovely Sonja is?...yeah; I think I already did....I bet, now 20-some years later, she's still JUST as lovely.... and the climb is still just as excellent!
Yesterday, the Minime and I replaced the anchors on this route with 1/2 inch bolts and chain. 1 bolt is a stainless power bolt, the other a 5.5 inch strke anchor. This was part of the ASCA/Access Fund effort to work with the Park in cleaning up the most unsightly anchors and tat.
Park Avenue
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