This route is pretty darn good, especially if you like off-widths.
Approach up talus and across a ledge system from the right of the formation. Head around the base to the left - this is the first crack system in a dihedral you come to. The first pitch of the route basically starts at fingers and works its way to fists - the crux being getting over the obvious bulge. Belay at fixed anchors 2/3 the way up the tower. The last third of the tower is a delightful struggle up a flaring off-width - the definite crux of the route. "Chimney" is a misnomer for this thing, the only thing I could squeeze in there were chicken wings and knees.
Two ropes gets you completely off the route, but it looked feasible to do it in two, single rope rappels.
Protection
One each 0.5 to #4 Camalots. Maybe a few extra hand-size pieces. No stoppers.
I agree, Josh, the handcrack bulge low down is hard 5.10, but the OW is definitely the crux, Might it be useful to carry a #5 Camalot for this section? Thankfully, the OW is short, but that is no help when you are at the bottom of it. This is the best route I've done at Arches (out of about 6!).
I dunno, for me a 10a OW is harder than a 10c hand crack!
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Feb 1, 2006
First pitch is awesome. Size goes BD#0.75 Camalots all the way to BD#4 Camalots... with the business being slightly kicked-back hands to wide hands. Felt like 9+/10- compared to Indian Creek grades.
Second pitch. Ug. I recommend 2x#4.5 Camalots for the aid climbing personally....
The anchors are on the middle bird... and there is a very spicy move to gain the top... remember, it ain't over until it is over.
Great weekend climb as it doesn't get much traffic. In the sun until noon. Two single raps work fine.
you can rappel from the summit anchors with one 70m rope. rapping from the summit keeps the rope out of the many deep (and possibly rope jamming) rope grooves near the top.
No need for #5 Camalot, it is too big. Two 4.5 Camalots (ie purple #5 C4) would be ideal.
Hand-hand stacks on the second pitch and too narrow to get a knee in - one of the harder offwidth techniques to master.
The "VERY spicy" move to the top is only moderatly spicey IMHO. Don't let the above comment scare you off. There is a horizontal crack between the chimney and the anchors that you can stuff full of cams. I got in a #3, #3.5, and a #1 camalot and then equalized them. Beyond that it is only a move or two and then you can reach the anchors.
The Arches Task Force and the ASCA have now replaced the anchor on top with chain and two half inch bolts. The route can be rapped, I think, with a 70 meter rope... A single sixty puts you about 10 feet off the ledge.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 10, 2007
Thanks, Sam. The anchor that was up there before was a mess!
the top pitch needs a old number 4 cam and a new #5 cam. a hand sized cam or two down low were nice right off the belay. I just bumped the 5 came up a bit to get me through. save a #1 camelot for the top out- that was a wee bit sandy and scary.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Apr 19, 2008 rating: 5.10c
pretty good route, i'd call both pitches 5.10- that offwidth felt pretty tough....props to Michael who sent it with a single #4 C4! yowsers!
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