Northeast Chimney 

When I did it a couple of years back, it was tough to find anchors at the first belay ledge. Is that still the case? An obvious cam crack, well-used to judge from the erosion, is actually behind a huge unsupported flake that I didn't want to touch. On the second pitch I placed a TCU in the sandy pin scar at the crux -- that held its own weight, probably not much more. The moves aren't hard, but you're out there in the no-falling zone. Once inside the chimney, and following a nice crack, things feel more secure. I agree with John, it's a serious climb for the grade.

We did this route last weekend and there are anchors on the first pitch. the second pitch was a free solo because we did not know to go deep into the chimney to look for the crack. it was scary and there was no place for gear unless you have one of those nice new #5 big bros.

This is a good route, but not a great route. The first pitch is pretty mungey, but the second pitch makes up for it. I wouldn't recommend this for a 5.7 leader unless I didn't like them. It's definitely awkward with bad pro until you get up into the chimney proper. The supertopo says a rack isn't necessary on the second pitch, but that seems like bad advice. There's a piece or two of marginal gear to be had before getting in the chimney, once inside tunnelling about 15 feet in yields a crack that can be sewn up.

There's two bolts on top and one bolt plus some slung chockstones atop pitch one for the rap anchors.

I would definitely recommend Owl rock or Lizard rock over this tower, but it's worth doing once.

I did enjoy this route quite a bit. I would recommend approaching from the pull-off by walking back along the 'Windows' road toward the intersection and then down the main road - cut up hill straight toward the tower in a wash. This utilizes the shortest distance across the bio-soil. I would agree that there maybe some marginal gear near the beginning of the second pitch (equalize). I did not notice the crack inside the chimney until near the top. But after considering how far inside the crack is and how comforting the edge of the chimney felt, I'm glad that I did not move over to it until I saw it. It was however very nice to have a nut in it to finish on the slick slab before the anchors. I felt this route had some classic, desert tower aura about it.

You can place a yellow Alien before you enter the chimney and maybe a small stopper. That is the only pro until you get into the crack deep in the chimney, and it is marginal at that. Not for the 5.7 leader, but rewarding and cool for those who are up for it.

Cam Burn's guide shows a fixed pin before the traverse. If this pin ever existed it is gone now.

A single set from yellow Alien to a #3 Camalot with possibly some doubles on finger to hand size is about right. There aren't any placements for large cams on the second pitch, although a #4 or #5 Big Bro might work.

It sounds like some folks are going straight up for 20 feet to start the second pitch. That way is considerably harder and would result in a ledge fall if you blew it in the wrong spot.

The easy way is to climb above the ledge about 5 feet and then tunnel into the chimney. Once in, you can basically walk to the middle of the formation and then GRUNT though 10 feet of squeeze chimney (If you're fat, you won't fit) until the chimney becomes more fun and the protection crack appears.

Brad why would we want to climb into the chimney to place gear when it is way cooler to stay on the outside and run it out to the top? It's all about the style points man.

Brad, I have to agree with Ben, its all about the style points. I did this tower 4 years ago, with no gear on the entire second pitch, mainly because I didnt know how to read a guide book topo. I returned and took some friends up it this past weekend, and again, knowing the route, did the same as it feel really secure inside the chimney. Style points, but if your just an aid climber, you wouldn't understand.
However, if you are interested in the route my firends did just what you said, pull 1 or 2 akward moves off the belay and then squeeze into the slot immediatley (being fat is not an option, so I couldn't have made it according to Ben). Then you can totally walk back on the chimney floor to the crack and protect it straight to the top. I also agree with John on preferring this route over the Olevsky on Owl.

Also, there is a new bolt and fixed hex equallized to rap slings on the 1st pitch beay.

Could we keep the banter on the forums? Its a bummer if you are trying to print out the page for beta and some of the comments are useful. Not that anyone would ever need to print out beta for this one, but even so.

The Arches Task Force replaced the anchors on this route. There are now camouflaged chains on the first belay and at the summit. Though I did not try it, I believe you can comfortably rap with one 60 meter rope (two raps).
A prominent local climber reminded me of something before we replaced the anchors... when you get to the chains on this one, you have not summited. The block behind you is about two meters higher than the rest of the tower and requires a 5.11 move to get to... with bad pro. Some people might have to recount their tower list!

For the "timid" sandstone neophyte, the 5.7 rating is a worm on the end of a hook.....it was for me anyways. I did this climb in the early 1980's with Doug Smith, and we had a good time, but unprotected chimneying on sandy sandstone aint' for everyone. Still, I think it gets done often, and often by novice climbers cutting their sandstone teeth and desiring the "tower experience." It's all alot of fun until someone loses an eye;....don't slip!

There is plenty of good gear in the chimney. As long as you traverse far into the chimney right off the belay, it will swallow up all the nuts and small gear you bring.