Maybe it was the rain, maybe it was just the entrada sandstone, but I thought this climb was really unappealing. However, I will still give it a star because the line is indeed attractive and Stewart Green's (Falcon Publishing) "Rock Climbing Utah" guide calls it "excellent."
Head to the obvious blocks on the Great Wall (as my partner pointed out, they look like a stop-action photo of a large block slowing toppling over to the left), and to the crack in the dihedral to a three piton anchor. Bring some fresh webbing.
Protection
Two sets of cams from .5 to 3.5 camalots. A #5 camalot is very nice to have.
I liked this route. It is a bit sandy but is really good jamming with all sizes represented. I think I used two each 1-3 camalots and a few smaller cams at the bottom. The 5 is nice to have but probably not necessary. You can get a 0 TCU in the wide section but probably would'nt want to fall very hard on it.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Feb 1, 2006 rating: 5.10-
Yes, this route is a little sandy, but it is still a great climb in a spectacular location. The view across the desert to the La Sals is awesome. It also is rarely crowded and very sunny - perfect for a cold weekend in the desert. Cams go from BD #0.5 to BD #3.5. A single offwidth move to the chains can be protected by a big cam, but odds are the sand crystals wouldn't hold anyways... Don't let the offwidth move keep you off this climb, it is ONE move to the chains. Recommended.
The ATF has changed the anchor on this route to brown chain and two half-inch bolts. The OW move at the top is about as easy as an Entrada OW move can be and not be face climbing.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Apr 25, 2007
I ascended this climb in March of 1988 with Cyndie Bransford. We were very happy to have a short free climb to tick off in a very wonderful setting.....yeah, it aint' granite. Combine this climb with nearby Ring Arch, and you will have a fantastic day to remember.
By Allen Hill From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine May 31, 2007
I did this last week and really enjoyed it. It hardly felt like an Arches route. Rather solid and secure for the Arches.
Dirty, gritty, and sandy...a #5 is not necessary...run it out to the top...you cannot fall out of that chimney unless you try. Good first Arches route.
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