Broken Dreams 

FA:  Paul and Andy Ross, Cameron Burns. 7th Nov 2005 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Aid Consensus:  5.9 C2 [details] Length:  4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade IV Season:  Any Views: 487 page views Submitted By: Paul Ross on Jan 21, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Paul belayed by Andy on pitch two of Broken Dreams...

Description 

The route up Dreamcatcher climbs the north face up the obvious crack line. For reasons such as weather, time, gear problems, etc. the ascent took three attempts over a period of a year. On the first two Andy Ross led the first and third pitch, Paul Ross the second, and then with great support from Mr Cam Burns, Ross eventually led the long awaited final pitch to the summit. Starts just right of a massive chimney up a short slab to enter the crack system.

P1). Up the slab past two bolts, then follow the crack free and aid to double anchors. 130', 5.9 C2.
P2). Slightly overhanging thin cracks with intermittent bolts to double anchors. 70', 5.8 C2.
P3). Climb the overhanging thin crack for 25', and then the angle eases up a wide crack to double anchors on a large ledge. 100', 5.8+ C2.
P4). Move the belay right 25' to natural anchors. Traverse right past a bolt for about 30', then up a short bolt ladder to the summit. Rap and belay anchors to the left. 60', 5.8 C1.

Descent: Rap the route, taking care on overhanging sections.

Protection 

Three sets of Cams from Aliens to two #5 Friends and One #6 Friend.Stoppers. Two 60m ropes.

Add Photo Photos of Broken Dreams

Paul on the steep pitch two of Broken Dreams.	Andy starting pitch three Broken Dreams.	Paul on the last pitch of Broken Dreams
The Right Honourable Cameron Burns Esq on the Summ...	Lads on top . Cam Burns and Paul Ross on the Summi...