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Dreamspeaker
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North Face 

5.9+ C2

   

FA: Paul Ross, Andy Ross, Paul Marshall (UK) 16th Oct. 2002
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: 5.9+ C2 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 280 feet, Grade III
Views: 377 page views

Submitted By: Paul Ross on Oct 16, 2002


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P.Ross on Pitch 2. North Face of Dreamspeaker Spir...


Description 

P1). The first pitch goes up a crack/groove up the wall below the east end of the spire proper. 80' 5.9+ to a ledge and the belay.
P2). Go over the roof and follow good cracks to a ledge. Bolt/rap anchors. 100', 5.9 C2.
P3). Follow good but awkward cracks to summit. 100', 5.9 C2.

Descent: Rap to the top of P2 100', and then to the base 180'.

This route may now go all free, pitch 2 will be hard.
Nice area, great views, no people.


Protection 

Only anchor bolts used. Gear... 3 sets of friends up to #4, two #5, one #6. Full set wires.



Add Photo Photos of North Face
Dreamspeaker from the canyon rim rappel point.

BETA PHOTO: Dreamspeaker from the canyon rim rappel point.

P.Ross On Pitch 2. Dreamspeaker Spire . Photo Andy Ross

P.Ross On Pitch 2. Dreamspeaker Spire . Photo Andy...

The Joy of Rapping .The North Face Dreamspeaker Spire. Photo Andy Ross

The Joy of Rapping .The North Face Dreamspeaker Sp...

Dreamspeaker Spire from the West . Photo Paul Ross

Dreamspeaker Spire from the West . Photo Paul Ross

View of the Spire from the East

View of the Spire from the East

The three pitch route up the North Face of Dreamspeaker.

The three pitch route up the North Face of Dreamsp...


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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 11, 2004

Great Site. I used to work in this canyon chasing owls about ten years ago. Had to rap down to the creekbed every morning to tag them then climb back to the ridgeline to RT track them at night. Worked all over SE Utah but this was my favorite site.

Alex