P.Ross on Pitch 2. North Face of Dreamspeaker Spir...
Description
P1). The first pitch goes up a crack/groove up the wall below the east end of the spire proper. 80' 5.9+ to a ledge and the belay. P2). Go over the roof and follow good cracks to a ledge. Bolt/rap anchors. 100', 5.9 C2. P3). Follow good but awkward cracks to summit. 100', 5.9 C2.
Descent: Rap to the top of P2 100', and then to the base 180'.
This route may now go all free, pitch 2 will be hard. Nice area, great views, no people.
Protection
Only anchor bolts used. Gear... 3 sets of friends up to #4, two #5, one #6. Full set wires.
Great Site. I used to work in this canyon chasing owls about ten years ago. Had to rap down to the creekbed every morning to tag them then climb back to the ridgeline to RT track them at night. Worked all over SE Utah but this was my favorite site.