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Marjumhorn, The 

The Marjumhorn 

5.11b

   

FA: FA. Tyler & Amy Phillips 6/02/05 FFA. Tyler P & Troy Andersen 6/25/05
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III
Views: 238 page views

Submitted By: TP in SLC on Oct 31, 2008


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topo


Description 

P1: Start on steep black face climbing up into obvious shallow dihedral system, from the top of the shallow dihedral move slightly right and up to a nice ledge and belay. 5.11b 115ft

P2: Climb up the deceptive slab/face making devious moves on good rock to a good belay ledge. 5.10d/11a 90ft

P3: From belay shuffle right around the corner to the north side of the tower, e-z climbing brings you past a old belay and to a missing bolt, commit to the "easy" move above the missing bolt to a clip. From here the pitch becomes sharp and really cool, don't forget to get on that arete and peer around the corner then ramble up to the "sidewalk in the sky" summit. 5.8+ 115ft.


Location 

This is the lookers left of the 2 towers. Look for an obvious bolt line on the front of the tower.

Descent: Rap route


Protection 

Gear: 16 quickdraws, an optional #4 camalot and a few slings. A 70 meter rope, or (2) 50 meter ropes.




Photos of The Marjumhorn Slideshow Add Photo
Bob on the first pitch

Bob on the first pitch

Starting up the 1st pitch

Starting up the 1st pitch

The mighty Luke D coming up the 1st pitch

The mighty Luke D coming up the 1st pitch

B. Grey on the 2nd pitch

B. Grey on the 2nd pitch

Zak coming up the sharp 3rd and last pitch

Zak coming up the sharp 3rd and last pitch

Zak on the final rap

Zak on the final rap


Comments on The Marjumhorn Add Comment
Show which comments —
By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Nov 1, 2008

Nice description, makes me think I could find the route and actually pull it off.

How about adding the length of each pitch?

By TP in SLC
Nov 1, 2008

There ya go Susan.

When I was climbing the 3rd pitch I was exhausted from the effort of the day. We had equipped the bottom 2 pitches and Amy was at the belay. As I free climbed around the corner I got a good stance and drilled a bolt. I rested on it as I was tired. I looked over and saw an old belay. "NOOOOOOOOOOOOO!" I shouted. We hadn't seen any signs of climbers up to that point, and I was stoked to bag such a sweet summit.

I looked up and saw a bolt w/ a biner about 30 feet above, I yelled down the situation and took off all the heavy drilling crap and left it on that bolt. As I climbed up I passed an old hole w/ no metal in it. I cranked the move above it and got to the old biner. The last 40 feet had not been climbed! "YESSSSSSSS!!!" I lowered down grabbed the drill and went to the summit.