The BEST single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.
All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.
again, for emphasis:
The BEST single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.
All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.
Got that? ;)
Description
The upper dagger/pillar has been known to come crashing down mid-ascend.
If you're not up for running out the last 20-30' with no gear, don't even get on it. There may be some pin placements adjacent to the top pillar, but don't count on it, unless you're a one-handed-placement thin-pin master... or were born with three functional arms.
Every bit as steep as it appears, only longer.
Location
Hike up the main road toward the Right Hand Fork, past campsight 12. The climb, if it's in, will be very apparent on the left side, requiring one to hike through the trees ~50yds to the base of the climb. Suggest placing a screw 20' up on the left to protect the belayer in the event of a catastrophic pillar failure, and avoid placing screws in the upper pillar if you have any desire to drink scotch in the safety of your own warm living room later that night.
Protection
Screws. Three bolt anchor at climbers left below/left of small tree, may sometimes need to be found under snow. Anchor webbing replaced 01/08 (red/black nylon)
The Right Hand Fork Ice Climbs
RSS Feed
