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The Pipe Dream

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The Pipe Dream

Submitted By: Chris Archer on Aug 18, 2004
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 39.5657  Longitude: -111.6964 
Aerial photo/map | Weather
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View from the back of the cave looking out across ...


Description 

Located at the top of the Right Hand Fork of Maple Canyon, the Pipe Dream cave is one of the premier venues of steep, hard climbing in Maple Canyon. The Pipe Dream is a large, shady, cave offering everything from gently overhanging 5.11 and 5.12 classics to numerous mind-bogglingly steep, power-endurance routes from 5.13 on up. A great place to beat the heat in the summer, no trip to Maple is complete without a visit to the Pipe Dream. The cave receives little sun due to its unrelenting horizontality, and the majority of the steep routes are in the shade all day. What little sun the cave receives occurs in the morning, and hits the routes on the left and far right side of the cave. These routes are usualy in the shade by around 11 am.


Getting There 

The trailhead is located at a small pull-out big enough for two cars on the west side of the road. (The right hand side as you head uphill). Hike up the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes. Approximately 10 minutes after passing Damascus Gate, you'll see the top of the Pipe Dream through the trees on the left.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Pipe Dream:
Toxic Watermelon   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Toxic Potatoes   5.11b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Dry Spunk   5.11c     Sport, 85 feet   
Solstice   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Le Spunk   5.11d     Sport, 60 feet   
Dry Times   5.12b     Sport, 90 feet   
Orgasmo   5.12c     Sport, 90 feet   
Rucksack Wanderer   5.12d     Sport   
Sprout   5.13a     Sport, 90 feet   
The Great Feast   5.13c/d     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 95 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Pipe Dream

Featured Route For The Pipe Dream
cameron working the amazing corner on dry spunk/times

Dry Spunk 5.11c  UT : Maple Canyon : ... : The Pipe Dream
The easier variation to dry times, (the 12b that continues left after the obvious crack tapers out). This route climbs a slightly overhung dihedral/ crack system for 70 feet. Cop a rest as the crack fades into a final 15 feet of standard cobblestones to the anchors of Le Spunk. Its no harder than 11c, although I might have heard someone mention 12a or something, new guidebook please.....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of The Pipe Dream Slideshow Add Photo
unknown climber on the diggler

unknown climber on the diggler