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Middle Fork/The Great Chasm
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Great Chasm, The 

The Great Chasm 

5.7

   

FA: Jason Stevens
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 3 pitches, 300 feet
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Views: 336 page views

Submitted By: Jason Stevens on Jan 30, 2007


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Jared Nielson on the first Pitch of the Great Chas...


Description 

Pitch 1: Start on the arete and climb a FULL 60M to anchors on the ledge.

Pitch 2: Move right 40' to a pod with anchors.

Pitch 3: Ascend the wall above (crux) to anchors on the left at a small outcropping. Continue to the summit and sign the register.


Location 

If you are looking at the Matrix, the route is behind you and slightly down-canyon. Starts on the obvious arete on the left side of the Raspberry/Fern filled gully. Rappel with one rope to the pod at the end of pitch 2, then to the ground with two 60M ropes.


Protection 

All bolts.



Add Photo Photos of The Great Chasm
Jared Nielson on the first pitch. Some might say the first pitch is a little runnout, but since I did the first ascent ground-up, solo in mountaineering boots placing bolts along the way, I think you'll be just fine.

Jared Nielson on the first pitch. Some might say t...

A view up the Middle Fork from the ledge at the top of the first pitch.

A view up the Middle Fork from the ledge at the to...

Jared Nielson sighning the summit register. This photo is shot looking up the Middle Fork.

Jared Nielson sighning the summit register. This p...

Allison on lead of the third pitch of the Great Chasm.

Allison on lead of the third pitch of the Great Ch...

The first pitch truly is a FULL 60m!

The first pitch truly is a FULL 60m!

Starting up pitch 1 with the upper headwall of pitch 3 visible above.

Starting up pitch 1 with the upper headwall of pit...


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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.7

Thanks for these multi-pitch routes, Jason Stevens. it's quite a joy to break up the routine climbing at Maple with routes like this!

By kip henrie
From: centerville, utah
Nov 9, 2007

I did this climb with my wife on our anniversary years ago after jason told us about it. since then i've taken people up this wondrous thing 5-6 times. It really is a nice easy climb with fantastic views. A touring route. Wear a helmut, rockfall is possible especially on the rappell. Also you'll need two ropes. The first pitch is way run out but easy. The last pitch is the funnest with huge cobbles for holds. Take your time and enjoy.

By grizz
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.7+

After searching a bit for this route, my partner and I enjoyed it. It was his first multipitch climb. I was a bit surprised by the run out of the first pitch but it was on easy climbing. The third pitch is the money pitch for sure although it is short. I have to complain about some bad beta I received from another website specific to Maple Canyon. In its description it states "it can be climbed with one rope". Well, guess what? You can't get back to the ground with one rope which left us with about 25' of 5.5ish downclimbing.

By Darren Knezek
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.7

I rapped the route with one rope, it was a 70-meter, but there was plenty of rope left.