Jared Nielson on the first pitch. Some might say t...
Description
Pitch 1: Start on the arete and climb a FULL 60M to anchors on the ledge.
Pitch 2: Move right 40' to a pod with anchors.
Pitch 3: Ascend the wall above (crux) to anchors on the left at a small outcropping. Continue to the summit and sign the register.
Location
If you are looking at the Matrix, the route is behind you and slightly down-canyon. Starts on the obvious arete on the left side of the Raspberry/Fern filled gully. Rappel with one rope to the pod at the end of pitch 2, then to the ground with two 60M ropes.
I did this climb with my wife on our anniversary years ago after jason told us about it. since then i've taken people up this wondrous thing 5-6 times. It really is a nice easy climb with fantastic views. A touring route. Wear a helmut, rockfall is possible especially on the rappell. Also you'll need two ropes. The first pitch is way run out but easy. The last pitch is the funnest with huge cobbles for holds. Take your time and enjoy.
By grizz From: Eureka, CA Jun 16, 2008 rating: 5.7+
After searching a bit for this route, my partner and I enjoyed it. It was his first multipitch climb. I was a bit surprised by the run out of the first pitch but it was on easy climbing. The third pitch is the money pitch for sure although it is short. I have to complain about some bad beta I received from another website specific to Maple Canyon. In its description it states "it can be climbed with one rope". Well, guess what? You can't get back to the ground with one rope which left us with about 25' of 5.5ish downclimbing.
The first pitch is bolted in such a way that you won't have to worry about z-clipping at all. We rapped off with one rope (70M). We BARELY made it, thanks to rope stretch. To do it, you have scootch way over to the right where the ground slopes up. Even then, our ATCs were right up against the knots in the end of our rope when our feet touched the ground (we simul rapped).
Great climb. Very enjoyable. It was nice and shady all morning and even though the canyon was packed we had this all to ourselves. It was very quiet and the view off the top is awesome. I highly recommend this climb.
A must do route for the grade with amazing views and position.
To find the route head up the middle fork trail towards the natural arch. After about ten minutes of walking you will pass a large cobble boulder (bigger than a car) on the right of the trail. Turn to your left, leave the trail, and cross the stream. If miss the boulder, the trail soon cross the stream. That should be your sign to turn around and go back about 150 feet. After you have crossed the stream at the boulder you will see a more defined trail heading to your right along the base of the cliff. Follow this up until you head into a fern filled gully with a line of bolts on an arete.
The first pitch is 5.5 and takes a full 60m.
The second pitch is a short traverse with one exposed fourth class move with no protection. It would be interesting to see if there was a way to easily combine this with the first pitch.
When you rap off from the second pitch you will end up at the top of the fern filled gully about 100 feet from where you started. A full single 70m rope will make it to the bottom, but you must swing around the corner to your right so that you are at the very top of the gully.