Approach up gully to Motor Mouth. Note main road ...
Description
Single 70 foot wide pitch to a low angle cobble field.
Location
From the mouth of the canyon, the first narrow slot south of the road. Just past where Jason’s book says, "wall looms over road here". Just past the first steep wall along the main road on the left. Climb up the narrow slot/gully, past a short step. Ice is located on the climber’s left side of the gully, after around 100 feet hike/climb up the gully. Hope for much snow in the gully to minimize groveling up the slot. We walked up to the rim and to the climber's left and rappelled (2 60m ropes) from a bush tied into a chockstone in a slot.
Protection
Fairly thick ice, all the way up with deeper ice bulges in the middle. May have to continue far up and to the left to find a top anchor (ie, we simul soloed the route).
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