BETA PHOTO: Hard to see the bottom of VPL through the trees, b...
Description
Start up the steep chimney, taking advantage of butt scumming rest positions. Confined tool swings. After around 30 feet of chimney, exit out slightly right to large, lower angle bulge of ice. Follow this larger flow straight up trending slightly left passing one lower angle break.
Also may be possible to continue straight past the chimney to a lower angle finish and some brush for anchors, especially if the ice to the right isn't that inspiring.
Location
Located in the tight chimney 100 feet to the left of Bottomless Topless and 100 feet to the right of Anorexia/Nervosa. Rappel from mountain mohogany tree.
Protection
Depending on the thickness of the ice, may range from long screws to rock gear. Anchor from tree atop route, just 30 feet past the steep ice finish. We used 17cm to 10cm screws to protect this pitch.