Unknown Between Arete and Emancipation of Dissonance 

FA:  Unknown Type:  Sport Consensus:  5.10+ [details] Length:  60 feet Views: 86 page views Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Sep 4, 2006 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Scramble to the belay chained start for two differ...

Description 

Two of the guides I had with me supplied conflicting information on this route (5.9+ vs. 5.10d). It didn't take me long to figure out which was incorrect. I was already tired from climbing all day and got so pumped that I lost count of my falls, and resorted to a french-free to make up for lost ground. I ended up traversing to the arete to make it to the neighboring route's chains. I'm sorry I can't provide more information than this for this route, but at least I can prevent aspiring 5.9 leaders from getting in way over their heads. Scramble up the left side of the flake/boulder to the 2 belay chains. Take the left bolt line. Enjoy the dirty solution pockets!

Location 

Between the Engagement Alcove and Petroglyph Wall, a large flake/boulder sits just right of an arete. The route starts on top of the boulder. Rappel off the 2 chain anchor.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 chain anchor.