Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Lake Powell

Show routes:
Select route...
A Bit Wide 
Cool Chimney 
Dihedral 
Easy Ramp 
Hard Arching Crack 
Hard Frickin Fingers 
Leaning Corner 
Liebacking 
splitter 
Steep Rings 
Top Rope Slab 
Whizisky 
Your Momma's 5.7 

Lake Powell

Submitted By: ryan albery on Mar 21, 2009
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Elevation: 3,600 feet
Views: 697 page views

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

  Print a Mini-Guide - Includes Routes!

Gunsight Butte near mile 17... made it up two pitc...


Description 

Endless beautiful cracks along the 700 miles of cliffs that form the shoreline. Navajo and Wingate sandstone. Generally a bit warmer than the Moab area. Adventure climbing with only a few hundred established routes... a lifetime of possibilities. This is truly a spectacular venue for climbing.

Unfortunately, the hundred or so feet of rock below the high water mark (the white stuff) is generally poor for climbing/water soloing.

It's good idea to bring a bolt kit, as the rock tends to deteriorate near the top of many routes, and the vast majority of the cliffs do not have walk off descents. Drilled angles work best in the softer Navajo Sandstone. Obviously, be responsible and smart about where you drill.

Beautiful camps abound, and driftwood generally makes for easy campfires. A portable shitter is required if you're more than a quarter mile from a marina.


Getting There 

Need a boat to get to the good stuff! Skiff rentals around $40 a day during the off season (best weather for climbing). Houseboats are very expensive ($3000+ a week). Sea kayaks are perfect.

Starting from the dam, the best climbing is between miles 40 and 139, and roughly 20 miles up the San Juan arm. Wingate appears at lake level around mile 115 and continues to 140.

Beautiful 3-5 pitch spires up the Escalante arm (mile 69), though currently difficult to access do to low water.

Hite Marina (at mile 139) is currently closed due to low water (the Colorado River is flowing here). Coming from the north, the best put in is at Bullfrog (south of Hanksville on highway 276), or Halls Crossing from the south. There is a vehicle ferry that operates between these two marinas.

The entire lake is inside the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, and a fee is required (or a national parks pass). Camping limit in one spot is 14 days, though this is only enforced during the summer months when it's generally too hot for climbing anyway.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lake Powell:
Cool Chimney   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Hard Arching Crack   5.12     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Browse More Classics in Lake Powell

Featured Route For Lake Powell
the obvious crack

Hard Arching Crack 5.12  UT : Lake Powell
difficult ring locks- not yet freed...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Lake Powell Slideshow Add Photo
Numerous routes on this formation (lake mile 127).  The little spire on the right goes at hard 11.

Numerous routes on this formation (lake mile 127)....

a handful of routes in the 9-11 range on this formation around lake mile 50.

a handful of routes in the 9-11 range on this form...

Boat start.

Boat start.

After the boat leaves it's just you, rock and water. This climb is located in a small Ampitheatre at the west end of the Tapestry wall.

After the boat leaves it's just you, rock and wate...

Half way.

Half way.

This route is much steep that the photos lend you to believe. It's about 5.10 and has an obvious end about 30 ft up. Descent is the dangle and drop!

This route is much steep that the photos lend you ...

Starting from a kayak. Knowles canyon.

Starting from a kayak. Knowles canyon.

Steep and deep!

Steep and deep!

Huecos!

Huecos!

Again steep than it looks!

Again steep than it looks!

This climb is located at the start of the canyon where defiance House is located.

This climb is located at the start of the canyon w...