BETA PHOTO: Snakeskin slithers up the weaknesses in the center...
Description
Scramble up an easy face to a bolt. Slither past a pin and enter the weaknesses that snake to and fro. There are several possible variations, as the cracks and seams fork like a viper’s tongue. Touchy traverses, an odd combination of jams, friction, face moves and rest stances will leave you smiling by the time you reach the belay ledge. For the second pitch (can be lead as one pitch, but the rope drag would be problematic), scramble up to a bolt and pop the crux bulge to a slab stance. Wind your way up the slab to a set of anchors just below the summit and enjoy the view. This is some of the highest quality rock at Ibex. The approach is a tad longer than some, but well worth the extra minute or two. There is a terrific flat spot upon which to deposit gear, change your shoes, relax, and belay. This area sees the sun for most of the day, but the sun goes over the horizon in the early evening, providing adequate shade on hotter days.
Location
The south face of the Syringe Wall is divided by a chimney. Snakeskin climbs the weaknesses between the chimney and the arête to the left. A ledge is visible towards the top, and the second pitch disappears over the horizon above.
Protection
Mixed bolts, fixed lost arrows (anodized blue) set of nuts and small to medium camming devices for the first pitch, all bolts for the second, crux pitch. A two rope rappel from the top anchors gains the base of the climb. Several long slings will help to alleviate rope drag. Some of the fixed protection is placed in awkward places that wind back and forth across the weaknesses. Also, it may be wise to back up the pitons that are bent (they weren’t fully seated and have yet to be tied off). A helmet is recommended.
Syringe
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