Yogini marked on the left side of the Madness Butt...
Description
Like many other Ibex routes, this is a route that requires some creative Yogini type poses to climb it at the noted grade and I think you will find it very enjoyable. Laybacks to mantles to thin face to gaston to arrow poses, it has alot to offer!
Location
Walk around the corner left side of Madness Buttress.
Protection
QDs. Bolts supplemented by gear on the SE corner of the Madness Buttress. A few micro to small cams to #2 Camalot should suffice. Two bolt belay stations at each anchor. Drilled on the lead. Well protected.
One of my first multi-pitch climbs in an amazing area with amazing people. Thank you James and Fransizka for putting this route up so Will and I could have such an awesome time!
a very fun climb with a killer first pitch crux. pitch two is a gem that has some impeccable link ups. no anchor was found on top of this beauty. are they heavily disguised or missing fries? protected the final moves and traverse with some small gear and ended on CS anchors.
TOTM anchors at the top serve as the final belay for this climb seemingly OK, don't they? There are probably only one set of anchors on top. Did you think the grades were correct? Thanks!
i thought the TOTM anchors work just fine! they are kind of low and very far right. it is easier to protect the follower by placing some gear, climbing up, traversing right, and then ending on top of CS. following the mp description might lead one to believe there were some independent anchors for this climb? second pitch was definitely .10b/c or more like a solid .10c. the first pitch, well....i'd have to do that one again to say for sure. it stumped a solid .12 climber and an avid .11+'er. excellent route! solid rock, loved leading p2! the very last 'bolt' was camera worthy!
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