Yogini marked on the left side of the Madness Butt...
Description
Like many other Ibex routes, this is a route that requires some creative Yogini type poses to climb it at the noted grade and I think you will find it very enjoyable. Laybacks to mantles to thin face to gaston to arrow poses, it has alot to offer!
Location
Walk around the corner left side of Madness Buttress.
Protection
QDs. Bolts supplemented by gear on the SE corner of the Madness Buttress. A few micro to small cams to #2 Camalot should suffice. Two bolt belay stations at each anchor. Drilled on the lead. Well protected.
One of my first multi-pitch climbs in an amazing area with amazing people. Thank you James and Fransizka for putting this route up so Will and I could have such an awesome time!
TOTM anchors at the top serve as the final belay for this climb seemingly OK, don't they? There are probably only one set of anchors on top. Did you think the grades were correct? Thanks!
Classic route, my favorite so far @ Ibex. The crux on P1 is awkward and committing, the kind of bouldery stuff you don't expect to encounter on a route. There's a bolt right there so you won't go anywhere if you blow the delicate sequence. P2 is one of the best face climbing pitches I've done anywhere. I'm still amazed it links a whole bunch of features together through the steep blank headwall. Tiny crimps, deep 2 finger pockets, weird sidepulls, smears, a bunch of press moves, a finger crack... It's all there with great exposure to boot.
I placed mostly small cams and nuts, can't remember the largest piece. Loved the last bolt too...
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT Oct 16, 2009 rating: 5.10c
Great route. I would call the 1st pitch 5.10c.
I should have payed more attention to the comments about the top anchor, as we couldn't find one and ended up walking off to the South and down the next gully, rapping once from a poorly fixed nut(downclimbing this step may be possible).
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