This was apparently free climbed by Park City local Kevin Fosberg at 5.12b-c? As I once mentioned elsewhere, this is truly fun weirdness on conglomerate...not of the same rock quality as the Dry Wall. Originally climbed 5.8 and A0, this essentially climbs a bolt ladder up the south face until the angle decreases somewhat and then the first pitch ends at a ledge where a register (sign in and spray away) can also be found. Pitch #2 grovels up to the summit tower where old 1/4" bolts were found....presumably from an ascent up the back side. Drilled on the lead....with a glue gun!
Location
South Face of the Nipple. It was named by 16-year-old partner Leif who is the son of the late great Dave Anderson...I think he was thinking about the piercing thing? Approach is 5 minutes from the car.
Protection
Many carabiners and QDs. Something like 23+ clips. The rappel from the top to the register station and then bomber rappel station to the ground. You will find some very interesting, albeit expensive "bolts" on The Nipple. Everything from original Chouinard ice screws to glue in DMMs. should have been an anchor placement in the choss class that day!
Rigging the nipple for a solo-aid was a bit funky. There's not much at the base for a good anchor- ended up having to equalize the first two bolts and occassionally tie off as I went. Strangely fun, like climbing through a museum of gear and bolting creativity. Bigger than it looks from the road- almost ran out of 'biners (I'd say maybe 30+ clips). The fixed line on the backside was in bad shape with one of the piton anchors pulled. Another route on the south face(?)...
By RoadTripRyan From: Salt Lake City, UT May 13, 2007
A couple of rivet hangers, or wire nuts are useful. 2 or 3 of the bolts were missing hangers.
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