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Graveside Matter Wall
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Faceplant 
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Lap Dance 
Widowmaker 

Lap Dance 

5.10d PG13

   

FA: 
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Season: Summer
Views: 61 page views

Submitted By: Karsten Holmquist on Jul 7, 2009


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Description 

Climb three bulges on perfect young limestone to rap anchors. First bulge is surmounted by a committing mantle (pretty common to the Cedar Canyon slabs) and is safely bolted. Bulge #2 requires that a pocket on the left be brushed out & mantle. Dont step on the little tree & dont fall. Bulge #3 has a great horizontal a foot or two back (clean the sand out), definately dont fall if you are just going to mantle. Run away from bulge #3 to the anchor. It is great and prepares you for Psychoslabaddict and such.


Location 

the route is around the corner and 2 or 3 routes to the right of Ghost Rider (5.6) next to a tree.


Protection 

B & H...can be interpreted as about 3 or so Bolts and Hangers or Balls and a Helmet (typical of the Iron County Crew's routes)



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By Karsten Holmquist
Jul 7, 2009

I would very much like to know who did the FA in this little gem. Those folks know what fun is!

By TP in SLC
Jul 7, 2009

Hey Karsten,

I think it was Ben ? he used to own the Mountain Shop who did the FA...

By ZachBradford
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.11b

The route is great! The intro move is Hard but it eases up after that. With a direct start under the first bolt it felt more 11b. I am only 5' 7" may be easier for taller climbers. Either way is a great climb for someone looking for a challenge to get off the ground. The moves up top are worth any effort it takes you at the start.