Spring time Peregrine closures (it lasts until the end summer) MORE INFO >>>
The Burr Trail is the only place I've encountered Peregrine closuers around Escalante. We also ran into a not so friendly "climbing" ranger who actually got off his duff to hike out to tell us that we couldn't climb where we were. He "pointed" out a nest that none of us could see, down the canyon 500+yards, even with binoculars. I say this because he HATED the idea of Longs canyon becoming a "Moab" (and even said so). Don't worry buddy, the rock here is not nearly as good..;)
BETA PHOTO: Longs Lies marked in red. Note the window up high ...
Description
P1. Start up the very cool looking cracks using the big patina's for holds until you reach a 2 bolt anchor at 100 feet. 5.9
P2.From big stance climb up and right. Climb up the obvious sweet finger crack. 5.9+ 50 feet
P3 Bring some nuts or cable swages for tying off BOMBER (as of 4/06;) ) bolts to the window,climb through the window onto terra-firma and a 2 bolt belay. this pitch might be freeable? A0. 40 feet
It is possible to combine 2 and 3.
Location
This route lies about 600 yards north from the tourist slot canyon. There is a sign in spring posted that climbing beyond this point is illegal due to Peregrine Falcons. Look for the obvious window up high on the formation
2 double rope raps get you back down. Replacement slings for rap stations might be nice.
Protection
Doubles on everything #1 metolius to #4 camalot. Slings very helpful, maybe some eiters for the aid.