BETA PHOTO: Utah Wall - Central Roof Area Shows three climbs ...
There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.
The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Utah Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Utah Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Utah Wall:
Utah Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Shotgun 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Airtime 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Utah Wall
Shotgun (Variation) 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Utah Wall
This is essentially Shotgun but with the variation of pulling the roof further down instead of continuing up into the apex of the roof before pulling out. Although similar to Shotgun, we thought it was fun enough to include it as a separate route. Just after you exit the splitter 'lighting bolt' crack you will see two cracks in the roof that angle up and to climber's left. Hold your breath and work these two overhanging cracks until you get on the upper face. Easy ascent from there. Committing a...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
From: santa clara, utah
Apr 20, 2010
As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.
The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.'