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Utah Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airtime 
Apex 
Apex Right 
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb 
In The Pink 
Lawyers, Guns, and Money 
Right of the Roof 
Shotgun 
Shotgun (Variation) 
unknown (right most crack in the roof) 
Unknown (TR) 
Unnamed 
Unnamed Dihedral 
Utah Crack 

Utah Wall 


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Elevation: 4,800'
Page Views: 6,239
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Robert 560 on Jun 7, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Utah Wall - Central Roof Area

Shows three climbs ...

Description 

There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.


Getting There 

The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Utah Wall:
Utah Crack   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Shotgun   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Apex   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
In The Pink   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Shotgun (Variation)   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, TR   
Lawyers, Guns, and Money   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Airtime   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Browse More Classics in Utah Wall

Featured Route For Utah Wall
Jake Werner...first hard move!

Lawyers, Guns, and Money 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Utah Wall
This climbs the slabby face to the right of Shotgun crack. All I remember is clipping a few bolts on the face and then using some gear to protect the roof and cracks above. I pulled the roof a bit to the right of where Shotgun probably does. I also remember hitting chain anchors at the top (maybe shares the anchors of Shotgun??). It felt like a mid 10 at the time......[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For Utah Wall
Comments on Utah Wall Add Comment
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By jeffozozo
From: huntsville, utah
Apr 20, 2010

As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.

The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.'