BETA PHOTO: Utah Wall - Central Roof Area Shows three climbs ...
There are really two areas here. The Utah Wall and The Upper Utah Wall. Very diverse climbing with both classic trad routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.10 right alongside great sport routes. This is a must do area when visiting the canyon.
The Utah Wall is located .6 miles up the canyon from the waterfall. Park at the Hole In The Rock pullout located .8 miles up the canyon from the waterfall, then hike back down to the Utah Wall. It is up the second major gully on the south side of the road. Be very careful on the approach the first 150 yards are VERY steep with allot of loose rock. It would be much easier to get hurt on this approach then on the climbs.
Weather station 2.1 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Utah Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Utah Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Utah Wall:
Shotgun 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Utah Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Airtime 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Utah Wall
Airtime 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Utah Wall
Really surprised that this one hasn't been added, as it is easily the best route on the Utah Wall. Jeff Lowe originally led this for the FA when he was only 14 and rated it 5.8!This route is located on the North Ridge of Utah Wall. Approach by walking, following the spacious ledge, up and right (north) at the base of "Shotgun" and "Lawyers, Guns, and Money." Belay at a stance just before the arete. Lead up the arete through broken up ground towards the striking rightward leaning crack up hig...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
From: santa clara, utah
Apr 20, 2010
As you walk down the road, trying not to get hit by the cars coming up the canyon, it is a little confusing to find. As a landmark, there is a sewer grate on your way down. Keep going past the grate, and then past a very narrow part of the road where the shoulder is almost non-existent.
The climbs don't start until you are a good way up the gully. Keep climbing the scree of death until you can see the obvious M-shaped roofs of 'In The Pink.'