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Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 - 2014
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By tenesmus
Dec 28, 2013

Klimbien wrote:
@ Tenesmus - There is no access issue, this area is inside Zion NP, however when you park and go through the gate with a sign letting you know that you are entering Zion it just says, "Please close gate behind you" - all are welcome.

Sweet!!


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By Travisstull
Dec 29, 2013

Russell Sneddon wrote:
Has anybody been down to Joe's Valley lately? If so is has any good ice come in yet? Was hoping to do Robert's Horn this weekend but due to avy danger looking for a different area.


We went to Joes Valley on Dec 23. Some decent ice on a few routes. CCC falls was pretty good. Dead bolt was really wet over the top of solid plastic ice. The WI 5 pitch was very chandelier,with good hooking.
Donorcicle was not in, a huge gap before it touched down on the cone below. Wolfenstien nothing.

We climbed Maple last Friday, not much in. The least ice I have seen in at least 5 years in Dec. Climbed some small thing on right after box canyon. Wet itchies in Left Hand Fork ok, not great but climbable. Get whacked not in, none of the climbs on South side of Road like Running Man is in. In Box Canyon, we checked out the dagger, the first half up to the overhang is usually in and a good little warm up,but it was thin, not protect able, seeing how little ice was on it, when normally it is one of the fattest features, we did not venture further in.


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By Travisstull
Dec 29, 2013

Josh Allred wrote:
Any suggestions this week with Avi conditions being so high? Provo? GWI? Maple (Doubt there is anything)? Any word what the ice is looking like at Joes? Thanks. Edit: I guess I should clarify. Any SAFE suggestions this week with Avy conditions being so high?



We went to Joes Valley on Dec 23. Some decent ice on a few routes. CCC falls was pretty good but last pitch very very wet. Dead Bolt was really wet in places over the top of solid plastic ice. The WI 4/5 pitch was very chandelier,with good hooking.
Donorcicle was not in, a huge gap before it touched down on the cone below. Wolfenstien nothing.

We climbed Maple last Friday Dec 27, not much in. The least ice I have seen in at least 5+ years in Dec. Climbed some small thing on right after box canyon. Wet itchies in Left Hand Fork ok, not great but climbable. Get whacked not in, none of the climbs on South side of Road like Running Man is in. In Box Canyon, we checked out the dagger, the first half up to the overhang is usually in and a good little warm up,but it was thin, not protect able, seeing how little ice was on it, when normally it is one of the early forming features, we did not venture further in.
12 year old daughter on CCC falls Dec 23
12 year old daughter on CCC falls Dec 23


4/5 pitch on dead bolt Joes valley Dec 23
4/5 pitch on dead bolt Joes valley Dec 23


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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Dec 29, 2013
a

Wow I'm pretty surprised as to the shortage of ice in Joe's. Wonder what the culprit is? Not enough water?


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By chadnuesmeyer
Dec 30, 2013
Take it easy

SwC wrote:
Wow I'm pretty surprised as to the shortage of ice in Joe's. Wonder what the culprit is? Not enough water?


Its all being diverted to the dirtcicle ;-)


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By Eli Harry
Dec 30, 2013
Bad Bannana's

Trying a figure out what climb this is... It's to the left of ice mate and playmate in the little ouray area. Nice 30-40 feel of ice and someone put up some nice anchor bolts up there ta' boot!

Icemate and playmate are still not formed on the right..
Icemate and playmate are still not formed on the right..


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By tri-cameron
Dec 30, 2013

We made the long trek up past the fifthwater hot springs to check out "sixth water" ice fall

12/29/13
12/29/13


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By haleymay
From Salt Lake City
Dec 30, 2013
hand solo - selfish wall

tri-cameron wrote:
We made the long trek up past the fifthwater hot springs to check out "sixth water" ice fall


How was it? I'm heading up there this week.


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By Warbonnet
From Utah and Cambodia
Dec 30, 2013
FA "Unfinished Business" 5.11cR Wind River range, Wyoming. Beta photo in this album

It is a bit weird re: Joe's, esp. given the very cold snap not long ago. Surprised that CCC is in (must be drippy?) but it's aspect favors its conditions.

Has anyone made it to Mary's? That usually forms long before the main Joe's area.


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By tri-cameron
Dec 30, 2013

haleymay wrote:
How was it? I'm heading up there this week.


We took gear but each ended up soloing it. We didn't know what to expect but could have saved a lot of weight had we known. It's pretty short but the whole trip including the hike , climb and a dip makes it a good day.


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By chadnuesmeyer
Dec 31, 2013
Take it easy

Along with Mary's has anybody heard anything about Strawberry Pinnacles?

Searching for ice this year is getting tricky. I have machines and can get out there, I would like to be as efficient as possible on the trips. In advance, Thanks.


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By bay
Dec 31, 2013

yo chad
drove the strawberry river road on my way back into town the other day. Zero ice. same can be said about the usual suspects out in the uintah basin.
However, I did spend an afternoon slayin' some WI-1 ice... fishing :p


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 31, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Moqui Holdout was too thin to climb yesterday:

Moqui Holdout
Moqui Holdout


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By paintrain
Jan 1, 2014
Chuck Norris can Divide by Zero

Drove up Logan canyon New Years Eve day. From the road I didn't see any ice.

Pt


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 2, 2014
Hummm...

bay wrote:
...drove the strawberry river road on my way back into town the other day. Zero ice...However, I did spend an afternoon slayin' some WI-1 ice... fishing :p


Bummer! I'm heading to my Strawberry cabin next week for the month. I was hoping something was forming back behind me. Guess I'll just have to ice fish the reservoir, and maybe take my picks and crampons along and do some horizontal routes...Or, maybe farm some ice blocks out of the lake; or, put the garden hose up a cliff side and siphon some water down it. Yeah, and I'm sure the Park Service and Bureau of Reclamations will love me for it!-')


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 2, 2014

^^^^^
Why? One thread for Utah ice conditions is enough. Works for the entire state of Colorado.
Please let it work here.


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By Travisstull
Jan 2, 2014

Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:
Went down to Santaquin today. Angel of Fear is not in. ACT is thin and not touching on the second pitch. Candlestick is touching and down, but in full on WI6 conditions. Squash Head's first curtain was wet and chandeliered. Wouldn't take screws. We decided to skip it. Upper pitch looked like it was in reasonable shape. Backoff was actively forming. First pitch was kind of funky. Foolishly soloed up it thinking it was good all the way to the bolts but ended up bailing before the end of the first pitch. Needs another week or two to form into solid leading conditions. Kitty Litter wall was the consolation prize on the way home. Can't beat that approach with a stick.


Climbed Back Off in Santaquin today Jan 2. Ice was good. first low angle pitch had solid ice. There were dinner plates on every swing for first 3/4 of second pitch, but solid ice underneath, bullet hard, turned to plastic on the last quarter. Squash Head looked good from the road.


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By Steve J.
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 3, 2014
Storm Mountain Falls WI 4-5. Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT <br />Photo: Zach Clanton

Went down to check out the Finger of Fate today in Provo and this is what we found.

Finger of Fate
Finger of Fate

Decided it was a bit thin for my liking so we opted to check out Millers Thriller. There were a few openings where you can see through to running water, but it was all climbable. Here is what the third pitch looked like.
Millers Thriller 3rd pitch
Millers Thriller 3rd pitch


Happy climbing and keep posting!


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By Alan Rousseau
Jan 3, 2014

Scruffy band new years day, climbable ice but very thin.
Scruffy band new years day, climbable ice but very thin.


Fang yesterday.
Fang yesterday.


Squashead today good upper pitch is wet.
Squashead today good upper pitch is wet.


Back off today hero ice.
Back off today hero ice.


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By Brian in SLC
Jan 4, 2014
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Just back from Joe's...roadside ice fairly limited. CCC and Deadbolt in and in fair nick.

Donorcicle still hasn't touched and has a fair amount of water pouring off it.


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Jan 4, 2014
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

After being bumped out of position on the stairway, by a known local (thanks for ruining our climb)- so much for ethics. I found an item laying on the ground below the 2nd pitch. I would love to get it back to to the owners. (team climbing a pitch above us). PM me and tell me what it is and you can have it back.
Dallen


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 5, 2014
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Upper pitches of stairway don't look so hot. We did the first two but the third is looking kind of odd with all the chandeliered formations. The ice on the first two pitches was scary sounding and looking. It would generate massive cracks and look like it wanted to dinner plate but proved to be totally solid and took screws like a champ.

Stairway 2nd pitch and up 1/5/14
Stairway 2nd pitch and up 1/5/14


Apron looked good and was getting aggressively hacked up. BVL looks nearly unclimbable at this point. Doesn't seem like it got much water flowing over it just after it formed. BVR looks good, second pitch looks a little beat up. Poor White Nightmare is turning into a dirty staircase.


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By Brian in SLC
Jan 5, 2014
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Donorcicle 4 January 2014
Donorcicle 4 January 2014


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By Michael Stearns
Jan 6, 2014
top of grand

Climbed Miller's last Thursday (Jan 2) and FMR last Friday (Jan 3). Both were thin in spots, but very climbable. Top pitch of FMR was fat. I'll try and get some pictures up.

There were some guys looking for a lost dog on Thursday. We heard it barking all morning. The next day we saw a bunch of dog prints under the WI4 pillar pitch on FMR. No barking though. Hopefully they found it.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 8, 2014
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Some good looking ice in LCC. Super Slab was thin. So is the Scruffy Band.

Hanging Slab Gully 1/8/14
Hanging Slab Gully 1/8/14


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