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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13
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By James Garrett
Jan 11, 2013
Hollow Point in the middle of the photo. Route climbs right profile.

Hey Brian Smoot!
Was that you up there on Stewarts on 5 January Saturday with a party of three? I didn't recognize you the way everyone was so bundled up. Cheers!


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By bsmoot
Jan 11, 2013
Me in the 70's

Yes, conditions were good!...we climbed all 4 pitches.


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By Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Jan 11, 2013
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this pic was snapped : )

Willard Canyon Falls-in
Willard Canyon Falls-in


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Jan 11, 2013
The route in it's entirety.

Matt how was Willard Falls? That top section formed up well?


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By chadnuesmeyer
Jan 12, 2013
Take it easy

Nobody has said anything about it but, has anybody noticed the headlamp frozen in the ice on The Scruffy Band. If you go in the dark you can see the headlamp because the light is on. At least it was still on Monday.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 12, 2013
Hummm...

chadnuesmeyer wrote:
...headlamp frozen in the ice on The Scruffy Band. If you go in the dark you can see the headlamp because the light is on..


Nice, night climbing!


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By atrau
Jan 12, 2013

Hi all,

Whomever has visited the Provo Canyon area recently may have gotten a parking warning. I visited with a enthusiastic Utah Country Sheriff; who enjoys to get out just like the rest of us. He had been in the middle of writing a few in the parking lot of Upper Falls; when I ran into him.

Please don't park in front of the gates (Which is clearly Marked) or you will get a ticket.

He mentioned this would be the last day of warning; towing and impounding are the next steps.

Please be mindful of what this might mean if there is some emergency to get back into those areas.

Rob


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By Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Jan 13, 2013
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this pic was snapped : )

Ice is in down south

Huntington
Huntington


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By Matt Wolski
From Salt Lake City
Jan 13, 2013
...took a 20 ft'er about five minutes after this pic was snapped : )

Wonderwall
Wonderwall


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By alpinerocket
From Layton, Ut
Jan 14, 2013
What I do

Hello all! How is Joes forming up? We are going to detour there for a day or two on the way to Ouray.


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By RICHBLISS
From Lindon, UT
Jan 15, 2013
Ouray.

alpinerocket wrote:
Hello all! How is Joes forming up? We are going to detour there for a day or two on the way to Ouray.


Went to Joe's today. Climbed CCC Falls & Donorcicle. Everything we saw is forming up nicely. It was - 17 F when we started so everything was a bit brittle, but we had a great day of climbing. It was -24 F when we passed the Dirtcicle in Price. Chilly!

CCC Falls 1/14/2013 - 1st Pitch
CCC Falls 1/14/2013 - 1st Pitch


Donor, CCC, Melty 1/14/2013
Donor, CCC, Melty 1/14/2013


Temp in Price Canyon 1/14/2013 - 24 F
Temp in Price Canyon 1/14/2013 - 24 F


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By Micah Lewkowitz
From Longmont, CO
Jan 15, 2013
A beautiful afternoon in Sedona.

No pics, but Santaquin was in on Sunday. Angel of Fear collapsed recently and washed an avalanche across the trail. ACT and Candlestick were both in good conditions (the top out to Candlestick actually seems better-ish now). Squashhead is in with thick though chandeliered ice on P1. P1 on Backoff is a snow ramp and P2 is in thick.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 15, 2013
Hummm...

Seems I've managed to leave both of my copies of Ice Climbing Utah at the cabin; doing me no good watching conditions here in VA. Can anyone remind me what is the ratings range at Joe's again? What is CCC rated? Any nice 3s in that area to cut my slow-season-start teeth on?


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Jan 15, 2013

Digital Ice Guide. Joe's Valley Ice.

www.mountainproject.com/v/ice/105896016


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By Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Jan 15, 2013

Any updates on conditions in Provo Canyon (Bridalveil, Stairway, etc)?
Thanks!
Eric.


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By alpinerocket
From Layton, Ut
Jan 15, 2013
What I do

Thanks for the replies! Some say Joes is good some say Huntington. Might hit both but Joes looks better after this week.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 16, 2013
Hummm...

Looking at the raiting and photos on MP of pitches 1-3 of CCC, which pitch gets the WI5 rating? Or, is it the thin secondary pillar I can see on pitch 3?


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 16, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

RonB wrote:
Looking at the raiting and photos on MP of pitches 1-3 of CCC, which pitch gets the WI5 rating? Or, is it the thin secondary pillar I can see on pitch 3?

No pitch on CCC falls is WI5. Nothing is tall enough on that route. Lots of shorter vertical to near vertical curtains to give you a workout though.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Jan 16, 2013
Hummm...

Sorry confused CCC with Melty Way 4-5. Should be using my glasses...


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By Eric and Lucie
From Boulder, CO
Jan 17, 2013

Provo Canyon conditions? Anyone? Thks!


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 17, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Eric and Lucie wrote:
Provo Canyon conditions? Anyone? Thks!

Most climbs are in and in good shape.

The way Bridal Veil Falls is flowing makes belaying for Bridal Veil Left pretty sketchy. Saw a lot of rockfall there while on White Nightmare.


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By Ryan Hamilton
From Orem
Jan 17, 2013

Climbed Stairway To Heaven in Provo last night. All but one set of anchors above the apron were iced in, nowhere to be seen. Ice was a odd mix of REALLY hard brittle ice and the wettest ice I've ever climbed.


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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Jan 17, 2013
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12

Had a great day down in Joe's on 1/16/12. The Ice was Fantasic

There was some fun stuff leading back into Deadbolt

Fun stuff leading back into Deadbolt
Fun stuff leading back into Deadbolt

Deadbolt was great
Dead Bolt
Dead Bolt

CCC falls first pitch
1st pitch CCC
1st pitch CCC

CCC falls Second Pitch
CCC 2nd Pitch
CCC 2nd Pitch

I think this is the Spear of Fear from the road.... but if not, whatever it is it was Huge.
Spear of Fear from the Road
Spear of Fear from the Road

We did Climb the Donorcicle also but seeing there we picture post 3 days ago it's pointless to post another picture.

First Pitch of Baby Steps was Fat!!
1st Pitch of Baby Steps "The Pipe Traverse".
1st Pitch of Baby Steps "The Pipe Traverse".

Second Pitch of Baby Steps was in with nice root rest if you get pumped
2nd pitch of Baby Steps with famous root rest if you get pumped
2nd pitch of Baby Steps with famous root rest if you get pumped

Fourth Pitch of Baby Steps was Money!
4th Pitch and the Money Pitch of Baby Steps
4th Pitch and the Money Pitch of Baby Steps


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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Jan 17, 2013
a

"Baby Steps" can be found .3 miles past the 6 mile marker in Joe's as you're driving in. After seeing some ice up a drainage we got out to hike up to it and inspect its size and found three sections: a short vertical step with a tree branch crossing the top which you have to climb under, a low angle ramp, and then the longest of the 3 steps and the reason for getting out of your car at all. These steps had the most pliable ice we swung at all day, and despite their short sizes the drainage was pretty fun to cruise up. It's worth stopping to do on your way out--it will take half an hour or less. Directly across the street from the small drainage are two pipes, one of which had a super thick and stumpy flow of ice coming out of it.


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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Jan 17, 2013
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12

Went in search of Ice and found this in Tolcat Cayon on Olympus.
The route is Boreas

Boreas in Tolcat Canyon on Olympus, UT
Boreas in Tolcat Canyon on Olympus, UT


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