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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13
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Dec 17, 2012
Mt Ogden, Summer 2012
Any updates on the Ice in Provo Canyon? Anyone attempt Stairway on the weekend, or did the rain on Friday kill it again? Thanks. vanman798
Joined Dec 6, 2012
28 points
Dec 17, 2012
Take it easy
Nathaniel Holt wrote:
Chadneusmeyer: Did you get a look at the deadbolt?


Just from the road...The river was flowing and I didn't want to cross it and do the hike. It looked big enough to be touching down. That was all I could really see.
chadnuesmeyer
Joined Nov 22, 2012
107 points
Dec 17, 2012
Take it easy
This morning I went and did pitch 1 and the Ramp on the GWI.

I didn't swing a tool once, slung trees and bushes on the left side of pitch 1, and no pro on the ramp. Furthermore, I didn't need a shower when I got to the office (breaking through the crud on the ramp took care of that).

What's worse, we weren't the first ones up there. There was one set of tracks that looked a couple of days old. Everybody is trying hard to keep nerves at bay while we wait for ice.
chadnuesmeyer
Joined Nov 22, 2012
107 points
Dec 17, 2012
Spent some time up in Joe's today. Deadbolt is a thin, lanky pillar touching down. Climbable, maybe. Highway to Heaven (the bouldery approach to Deadbolt) is pretty much just a hike right now. Went to try my luck at CCC but found it thinned out with all sorts of water running down. Hopefully lower temps this week will firm it back up. What a year. Matt Selman
From Spring City, Utah
Joined Jan 28, 2009
147 points
Dec 18, 2012
View from up above the hand crack
chadnuesmeyer wrote:
. Everybody is trying hard to keep nerves at bay while we wait for ice.


Indeed we are... But forecast shows cold temps in the future... cant be too much longer until we have some thick stuff come in. Esp with this snow.

Matt Selman: What do you anticipate the dead bold will be like later this week with the cold temps and snow? I rather enjoy "Highway to Heaven" when it's in all thick ice. It's like canyoneering ice climbing to get to a fun wall of ice "the deadbolt"

Anyone else been to Joes? I am going Thursday morn-Friday. I have only climbed CCC and the Dead bolt. I loved the dead bolt. Any recommendations on a fun route?
Nathaniel Holt
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Joined Jul 1, 2011
144 points
Dec 18, 2012
Nathaniel, I'm not sure what it takes to form the complete Deadbolt curtain. I would bet by the end of the week the pillar will be nice and fat, at the very least. And there's enough water to get Highway to Heaven in nice shape, if the temps stay down. Matt Selman
From Spring City, Utah
Joined Jan 28, 2009
147 points
Dec 19, 2012
Leading Blue Collar Crack.
Took all these today 12/19 on my way back from the swell:

Pricecicle
Pricecicle
Pricecicle


Bridal Veil Falls
Bridal Veil
Bridal Veil


Stairway To Heaven
Stairway
Stairway
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,281 points
Dec 20, 2012
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Went to Joe's today and found the Donorcicle starting to make its presence known. The climbing was good.

The Donorcicle 12/19/12
The Donorcicle 12/19/12


The Donorcicle 12/19/12
The Donorcicle 12/19/12


The Donorcicle 12/19/12
The Donorcicle 12/19/12


The Donorcicle 12/19/12
The Donorcicle 12/19/12
Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
277 points
Dec 20, 2012
Nice! cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
257 points
Dec 20, 2012
Why I do it...
Looks like Dirtcicle needs to heal a little bit, unless you like walking up stairs. Not surprising though with the warm temps we've had, I'd bet dirtcicle has seen more than its fair share of traffic this season.
Kevin
kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Joined Apr 21, 2008
49 points
Dec 20, 2012
Stairway To Heaven - all the way to the Pearly Gat...
us6.campaign-archive2.com/?u=1...


ATTN: CLIMBERS ACCESSING THE GREAT WHITE ICICLE AND OTHER AREAS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF LITTLE COTTONWOOD CREEK

For years ice and rock climbers have accessed the Great White Icicle and other south side areas by using the bridge and parking at the site of a small hydro electric plant a couple of miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. In 2010, the current owner, Cottonwood Hydro, was forced to remove the bridge during a flood event that threatened the plant. Since then, Cottonwood Hydro has posted no trespassing and no parking signs to protect the plant operations and access to their private property.

As a responsible climber, you can help improve the SLCA’s relationship with Cottonwood Hydro. Do not trespass or block the area and avoid the no parking and hydro hazard areas. Keep off the pipe, intake structures, and dam at all times! During times of low water, access the south side of the creek by using the recommended cross- country route shown in the map. During times of high water, use one of the bridges along the Little Cottonwood Trail provided by Cottonwood Hydro in partnership with the USFS. Bridges are located approximately ½ mile upstream or ¾ mile downstream of this location. When possible, carpool from a Park and Ride to conserve the limited, available parking. Thanks for your cooperation!
Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Joined Jul 6, 2007
1,152 points
Dec 20, 2012
So it's in? cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Joined Jan 3, 2007
257 points
Dec 20, 2012
GWI- Drove by it yesterday in the light after seeing a couple headlamps on it a few mornings ago. Looks like the first 2 pitches have almost no ice. The third pitch appears to be climbable with ice, and I could barely see anything resembling ice on the last pitch. I was going to take a picture but friend was driving too quickly. It didn't look to be worth it. Curious whats going on there this year, when I hiked up a week ago there was almost no flow and it was in the 40's Brian Muller
From Sandy, UT
Joined Nov 14, 2012
5 points
Dec 20, 2012
Leading off
GWI is climbable but still not great. Climbed to the top of the bulge today.
-1st pitch is thin and wet.
-Snow pitch is punchy down to the rocks.
-3rd pitch (second ice pitch) is very thin but a few bulges take 10s or 13s.
-Bulge pitch is in solid and up until the west belay bolts, it looked thin after that but doable with minimal protection until towards the top
Matthew Smith
Joined Aug 17, 2006
6 points
Dec 21, 2012
Has anyone driven North to look at Willard Falls by any chance? Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,730 points
Dec 21, 2012
What are people finding is the new best approach to the GWI? XYZ
Joined Dec 14, 2012
0 points
Dec 21, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Pretty much what the map shows below. Best parking is just west of the main lot (the main lot isn't currently isn't plowed as of tonight and is plainly marked "no parking" on the trees, etc, at the back of the lot). Cross the creek, follow the beat out trail.
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
11,031 points
Dec 22, 2012
Santaquin
Anyone seen Willard Canyon falls yet this season? Any updates would be great? dfrancom
From Palmer, AK
Joined May 15, 2009
25 points
Dec 22, 2012
Leading Blue Collar Crack.
Went and lapped the apron on Stairway last night. It was drippy, chandeliered and thin in places. Still worth going though. Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,281 points
Dec 23, 2012
Scruffy band a little thin but starting to come in
Scruffy band a little thin but starting to come in
Brian Muller
From Sandy, UT
Joined Nov 14, 2012
5 points
Dec 23, 2012
FA, purgatorium/Left, WI6/M7. Highway to hell, rig...
FA, purgatorium/Left, WI6/M7.
Highway to hell, right

New route in Provo, Starts right of pitch 2 of stairway in a corner. 3 pitchs WI6/M7, Full rack to #2 camelot, don't forget the Iron/Specters. Some bolts. Enjoy!
Matt Tuttle, Scott Adamson
Room with a view
Room with a view




looking up the route
looking up the route

Climbed to 5th on stairway looking good, some of the fifth fell down, soft and juicy fell off. Be careful out there.
Scott Adamson
Joined Mar 25, 2009
53 points
Dec 23, 2012
I was wondering if you could help. I am coming to climb some Utah ice this week and I was wondering if anybody has climbed Stairway or Bridal veil yet. If so, what do the pitches go at?

Is there anything in at Maple canyon and what about Deadbolt and Melty Way. I would really appreciate any info you have. Thanx.
Martin Barnett
Joined Jun 17, 2006
96 points
Dec 23, 2012
Leading Blue Collar Crack.
Martin Barnett wrote:
I was wondering if you could help. I am coming to climb some Utah ice this week and I was wondering if anybody has climbed Stairway or Bridal veil yet. If so, what do the pitches go at? Is there anything in at Maple canyon and what about Deadbolt and Melty Way. I would really appreciate any info you have. Thanx.

Read the thread. You can find out all that info in the last page.
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Joined Feb 9, 2012
1,281 points
Dec 23, 2012
avatar
BM said: Scruffy band a little thin but starting to come in


This is really encouraging. I was beginning to think we'd never see that one again.
zoso
Joined Jun 3, 2007
514 points
Dec 23, 2012
Me in the 70's
Great photos everyone.
-
GWI in LCC is in fine, one comment though...the belay area at the start of the climb has yellow pee marks everywhere. The nice platform/shoulder at the base of the Bulge has another yellow patch in the middle, right where it's nice to hang out.

Come on! It's just 10 seconds of walking to keep these areas clean...don't be a dong.
bsmoot
Joined Aug 21, 2006
1,903 points


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