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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13
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By vanman798
Dec 17, 2012
Mt Ogden, Summer 2012

Any updates on the Ice in Provo Canyon? Anyone attempt Stairway on the weekend, or did the rain on Friday kill it again? Thanks.


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By chadnuesmeyer
Dec 17, 2012
Take it easy

Nathaniel Holt wrote:
Chadneusmeyer: Did you get a look at the deadbolt?


Just from the road...The river was flowing and I didn't want to cross it and do the hike. It looked big enough to be touching down. That was all I could really see.


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By chadnuesmeyer
Dec 17, 2012
Take it easy

This morning I went and did pitch 1 and the Ramp on the GWI.

I didn't swing a tool once, slung trees and bushes on the left side of pitch 1, and no pro on the ramp. Furthermore, I didn't need a shower when I got to the office (breaking through the crud on the ramp took care of that).

What's worse, we weren't the first ones up there. There was one set of tracks that looked a couple of days old. Everybody is trying hard to keep nerves at bay while we wait for ice.


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By Matt Selman
From Spring City, Utah
Dec 17, 2012

Spent some time up in Joe's today. Deadbolt is a thin, lanky pillar touching down. Climbable, maybe. Highway to Heaven (the bouldery approach to Deadbolt) is pretty much just a hike right now. Went to try my luck at CCC but found it thinned out with all sorts of water running down. Hopefully lower temps this week will firm it back up. What a year.


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By Nathaniel Holt
From Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 18, 2012
View from up above the hand crack

chadnuesmeyer wrote:
. Everybody is trying hard to keep nerves at bay while we wait for ice.


Indeed we are... But forecast shows cold temps in the future... cant be too much longer until we have some thick stuff come in. Esp with this snow.

Matt Selman: What do you anticipate the dead bold will be like later this week with the cold temps and snow? I rather enjoy "Highway to Heaven" when it's in all thick ice. It's like canyoneering ice climbing to get to a fun wall of ice "the deadbolt"

Anyone else been to Joes? I am going Thursday morn-Friday. I have only climbed CCC and the Dead bolt. I loved the dead bolt. Any recommendations on a fun route?


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By Matt Selman
From Spring City, Utah
Dec 18, 2012

Nathaniel, I'm not sure what it takes to form the complete Deadbolt curtain. I would bet by the end of the week the pillar will be nice and fat, at the very least. And there's enough water to get Highway to Heaven in nice shape, if the temps stay down.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 19, 2012
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Took all these today 12/19 on my way back from the swell:

Pricecicle

Pricecicle
Pricecicle


Bridal Veil Falls
Bridal Veil
Bridal Veil


Stairway To Heaven
Stairway
Stairway


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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Dec 20, 2012
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12

Went to Joe's today and found the Donorcicle starting to make its presence known. The climbing was good.

The Donorcicle 12/19/12
The Donorcicle 12/19/12


The Donorcicle 12/19/12
The Donorcicle 12/19/12


The Donorcicle 12/19/12
The Donorcicle 12/19/12


The Donorcicle 12/19/12
The Donorcicle 12/19/12


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Dec 20, 2012

Nice!


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Dec 20, 2012
Why I do it...

Looks like Dirtcicle needs to heal a little bit, unless you like walking up stairs. Not surprising though with the warm temps we've had, I'd bet dirtcicle has seen more than its fair share of traffic this season.
Kevin


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By Allen Sanderson
From Oootah
Dec 20, 2012

us6.campaign-archive2.com/?u=18a83cc0bf513b95f1e2219a2&id=93>>>


ATTN: CLIMBERS ACCESSING THE GREAT WHITE ICICLE AND OTHER AREAS ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF LITTLE COTTONWOOD CREEK

For years ice and rock climbers have accessed the Great White Icicle and other south side areas by using the bridge and parking at the site of a small hydro electric plant a couple of miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon. In 2010, the current owner, Cottonwood Hydro, was forced to remove the bridge during a flood event that threatened the plant. Since then, Cottonwood Hydro has posted no trespassing and no parking signs to protect the plant operations and access to their private property.

As a responsible climber, you can help improve the SLCA’s relationship with Cottonwood Hydro. Do not trespass or block the area and avoid the no parking and hydro hazard areas. Keep off the pipe, intake structures, and dam at all times! During times of low water, access the south side of the creek by using the recommended cross- country route shown in the map. During times of high water, use one of the bridges along the Little Cottonwood Trail provided by Cottonwood Hydro in partnership with the USFS. Bridges are located approximately ½ mile upstream or ¾ mile downstream of this location. When possible, carpool from a Park and Ride to conserve the limited, available parking. Thanks for your cooperation!


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Dec 20, 2012

So it's in?


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By Brian Muller
From Sandy, UT
Dec 20, 2012

GWI- Drove by it yesterday in the light after seeing a couple headlamps on it a few mornings ago. Looks like the first 2 pitches have almost no ice. The third pitch appears to be climbable with ice, and I could barely see anything resembling ice on the last pitch. I was going to take a picture but friend was driving too quickly. It didn't look to be worth it. Curious whats going on there this year, when I hiked up a week ago there was almost no flow and it was in the 40's


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By Matthew Smith
Dec 20, 2012
Leading off

GWI is climbable but still not great. Climbed to the top of the bulge today.
-1st pitch is thin and wet.
-Snow pitch is punchy down to the rocks.
-3rd pitch (second ice pitch) is very thin but a few bulges take 10s or 13s.
-Bulge pitch is in solid and up until the west belay bolts, it looked thin after that but doable with minimal protection until towards the top


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Dec 21, 2012

Has anyone driven North to look at Willard Falls by any chance?


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By XYZ
Dec 21, 2012

What are people finding is the new best approach to the GWI?


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By Brian in SLC
Dec 21, 2012
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Pretty much what the map shows below. Best parking is just west of the main lot (the main lot isn't currently isn't plowed as of tonight and is plainly marked "no parking" on the trees, etc, at the back of the lot). Cross the creek, follow the beat out trail.


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By dfrancom
From Anchorage, AK
Dec 22, 2012
Santaquin

Anyone seen Willard Canyon falls yet this season? Any updates would be great?


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 22, 2012
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Went and lapped the apron on Stairway last night. It was drippy, chandeliered and thin in places. Still worth going though.


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By Brian Muller
From Sandy, UT
Dec 23, 2012

Scruffy band a little thin but starting to come in
Scruffy band a little thin but starting to come in


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By Scott Adamson
Dec 23, 2012

FA, purgatorium/Left, WI6/M7. <br />Highway to hell, right
FA, purgatorium/Left, WI6/M7.
Highway to hell, right

New route in Provo, Starts right of pitch 2 of stairway in a corner. 3 pitchs WI6/M7, Full rack to #2 camelot, don't forget the Iron/Specters. Some bolts. Enjoy!
Matt Tuttle, Scott Adamson
Room with a view
Room with a view




looking up the route
looking up the route

Climbed to 5th on stairway looking good, some of the fifth fell down, soft and juicy fell off. Be careful out there.


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By Martin Barnett
Dec 23, 2012

I was wondering if you could help. I am coming to climb some Utah ice this week and I was wondering if anybody has climbed Stairway or Bridal veil yet. If so, what do the pitches go at?

Is there anything in at Maple canyon and what about Deadbolt and Melty Way. I would really appreciate any info you have. Thanx.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 23, 2012
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Martin Barnett wrote:
I was wondering if you could help. I am coming to climb some Utah ice this week and I was wondering if anybody has climbed Stairway or Bridal veil yet. If so, what do the pitches go at? Is there anything in at Maple canyon and what about Deadbolt and Melty Way. I would really appreciate any info you have. Thanx.

Read the thread. You can find out all that info in the last page.


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By zoso
Dec 23, 2012
avatar

BM said: Scruffy band a little thin but starting to come in


This is really encouraging. I was beginning to think we'd never see that one again.


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By bsmoot
Dec 23, 2012
Me in the 70's

Great photos everyone.
-
GWI in LCC is in fine, one comment though...the belay area at the start of the climb has yellow pee marks everywhere. The nice platform/shoulder at the base of the Bulge has another yellow patch in the middle, right where it's nice to hang out.

Come on! It's just 10 seconds of walking to keep these areas clean...don't be a dong.


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