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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13



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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 1, 2013
Lead climbing.

Erik Eriksson wrote:
whats the pillar on second pitch of act lookin like?


I was climbing in Santaquin today and even with the temperatures being around 10 degrees last night it was wet. Bring a hardshell, she's a gusher.
ACT
ACT
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Mar 1, 2013


ACT has formed up some odd growths.
ACT/Candlestick
ACT/Candlestick
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Mar 1, 2013


Candlestick has all kinds of weird growths which make it quite reasonable to climb. Nice and spooky top out when leading though.
Candlestick
Candlestick
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Mar 1, 2013


The first pitch of Squash Head has a super bizarre leaning curtain of semi-attached ice. Had several fountains of water going. Second pitch was fantastic though.
Squash Head
Squash Head
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Mar 1, 2013


Backoff is thick and pretty drippy on the right side. Best quality ice I've climbed on this season though.
Backoff
Backoff
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Mar 1, 2013


Get Back On It is over with.


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Mar 1, 2013
Hummm...

Allen Sanderson wrote:
As water cools into ice it expands, when it warms it contracts.


And, look at what the ice is bonding to above and below the crack; like solid rock above and soft stuff below, and maybe nothing in between, or more rock below. Good spots for chronic fracturing in the ice due to the above explanation, i.e., thermal stress, as previously diagnosed. I suspect the rock bonded ice is pretty safe, especially where the ice lies back against the rock. Still, it looks warm this weekend out there, so more fracturing, so climb safe. Wish I were there at the moment, not in VA; but PA has snow, so maybe a 3hr drive is required; NH and NY have ice & snow, hummm...


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Mar 1, 2013
Hummm...

RonB wrote:
And, look at what the ice is bonding to above and below the crack; ...


OR! It's lunar tidal fracturing! ...I'm gonna go with that...


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Mar 1, 2013
Why I do it...



This was shot on Saturday. I'd doubt there is much change over the last 6 days.

I'm thinking this is Stairway to heaven, anyone know if pitches 2 and higher are as stepped out as this?


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Mar 1, 2013
Why I do it...



I think this might have answered my question. Then again this second vid was shot 7 weeks ago.


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By Erik Eriksson
Mar 1, 2013
taking the steep line

dude that is awesome feed back on santaquin!
Im headed back out the in the next couple days. act second pitch looks fat!


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By bsmoot
Mar 2, 2013
Me in the 70's

Climbed in Maple today...ice was great. The temperatures were colder than expected. Sunday should still be fine.

Scruffy Band is super fat right now.


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By suuntout
Mar 3, 2013

Tried to climb the apron last night around 11pm. Large horizontal cracks and mushy ice. We bailed. Hope it firms back up enough to climb


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By Brian in SLC
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 3, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Scruffy still in good nick.

Scruffy Band 3-3-13
Scruffy Band 3-3-13
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Mar 3, 2013


Rained pretty much all day.

GWI still fat. Take care with wet slide potential...


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By Nathaniel Holt
Mar 3, 2013
View from up above the hand crack

Anyone have any beta on the conditions of Provo Canyon as of today? Warm temps yesterday with the rain today pose concern. I was hoping to get out tomorrow or Tues. Looks cool enough in the evenings for some reformation. Then Wham High 40s to low 50's the rest of the week. Then cooler temps arriving on the weekends.

Will she survive? Takin bets. haha

Perhaps, I will go do "scuffy band" Brian from SLC made it sound like its fine and dandy.

Also, Anyone have any word on the conditions in Santaquin Canyon?

Cheers Fellas,


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By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Mar 4, 2013
Why I do it...

Nathaniel Holt wrote:
Anyone have any beta on the conditions of Provo Canyon as of today?...


Not sure what she looks like now. I climbed Stairway with a few folks on Saturday(3/02/13). The ice was dry, white, dehydrated, and hard in places, but a short traverse sideways yielded wet, blue, and plastic in others. Every pitch had new ice forming, but it was weak, and soft like rubber. The fourth pitch was dried out and hooked nicely. It was a pumpy one.
Get after it ASAP, if this keeps up, the upper pitches won't last till Saturday.


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By Briggs
From Vernal, UT
Mar 5, 2013
Tangled up in blue

Needless to say, Excalibur is not in.

Excalibur
Excalibur
Submitted By: Briggs on Mar 5, 2013


And the ice behind the house on the private property is huge. Locked gate with chain and lock, posted and no trespassing sign abound. No phone # to be found. Any suggestions?

Also, climbed in Maple on Sunday 3/3...perfect plastic hero ice. Around 32 at 7am, 48 by 2pm when we bolted. Top outs were a bit spicy. Hopefully she'll hold up...


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Mar 8, 2013
Hummm...

Briggs wrote:
Needless to say, Excalibur is not in...


Bob, glad you got to Strawberry area. Sorry the ice and access was not accommodating. Did you find the other climbs on the road before Excalibur that were in; my last look-see in late Feb? I was thinking of making a mad dash out there next week for spring skiing, but temps do not look good for the ice. Give you a call if I make it out...


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 8, 2013
Lead climbing.

RonB wrote:
Bob, glad you got to Strawberry area. Sorry the ice and access was not accommodating. Did you find the other climbs on the road before Excalibur that were in; my last look-see in late Feb? I was thinking of making a mad dash out there next week for spring skiing, but temps do not look good for the ice. Give you a call if I make it out...

I was out there with Briggs. We climbed up Dead Deer Falls (I think). Pretty scuzzy ice on that pillar. Doesn't seem like it's a great year for Strawberry ice.
Dead Deer Falls?
Dead Deer Falls?
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Mar 8, 2013


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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Mar 8, 2013
Hummm...

Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:
... We climbed up Dead Deer Falls (I think). Pretty scuzzy ice on that pillar. Doesn't seem like it's a great year for Strawberry ice.


Even so, (n)ice work! Yeh, I think it needed a bit more melt water. It was all so fat last season...


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By Chris Cox
From Logan, UT
Mar 9, 2013

Last Chance Falls
Last Chance Falls
Submitted By: Chris Cox on Mar 9, 2013


I just played around at the base, but Last Chance Falls looks climbable


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By michael voth
Mar 11, 2013

anyone seen the Great White Icicle? Im visitng family next week and am wondering if its worth bringing ice gear.


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By bsmoot
Mar 11, 2013
Me in the 70's

The GWI & Scruffy were in good but soft condition Saturday. With temps in the 30's & 40's, the ice was hanging around...but the 60's?


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By grk10vq
Administrator
Mar 11, 2013
. . .

hang up your tools, rock climbing is now.


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By michael voth
Mar 11, 2013

thanks yall i grew up in UT rock climbing and GWI has been on the list for years since I started ice climbing in CO. guess its time for a relaxing day at the Gate instead.


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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Mar 11, 2013

michael voth wrote:
Guess its time for a day of lining up behind peeps to get on Bushwack or Satan's at the Gate instead.

Fixed it for ya.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 11, 2013
Lead climbing.

grk10vq wrote:
hang up your tools, rock climbing is now.

I guess you missed these in your state-wide census of all ice-climbing.

3/11/13
3/11/13
Submitted By: Garret Nuzzo-Jones on Mar 11, 2013


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Mar 11, 2013

OK I'll be the 1st to ask, where is that?


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By grk10vq
Administrator
Mar 11, 2013
. . .

Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:
I guess you missed these in your state-wide census of all ice-climbing.

negative. i accounted for all flaming piles.
detached pillars and choss were the first to go.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 11, 2013
Lead climbing.

grk10vq wrote:
negative. i accounted for all flaming piles. detached pillars and choss were the first to go.

No choss? That covers everything in Utah then.


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