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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13
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By Brian in SLC
Feb 15, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Nothin' says current conditions like great shots of ice climbing.

Thanks, keep 'em coming!

FLAG
By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Feb 18, 2013
Second pitch 2/17/13
Second pitch 2/17/13

2nd pitch.

Frozen assets in through 5 pitches and then some snow. A bit thin on the puctured pitch was aired out stubbies and 13's. Ice and gear got better higher up.
The pitch described as ice in a corner was dry and looked to be hard mixed climbing with poor to no gear. The last WI5 pitch wasn't in.

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By Micah Lewkowitz
From Longmont, CO
Feb 19, 2013
Which way to the summit?
Climbed Scottish Gully yesterday evening. First pitch is in, no aid necessary to get into the gully. The ice peeters out on the second pitch, so it's adventurous mixed climbing to a tree below a roof about 45 m from the pitch 1 belay (on the face right of the gully). Mini-mixed pitch out right for the finish (avoids the hanging death blocks above).

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By bay
Feb 19, 2013
maple ice this past weekend kicked ass.
conditions are excellent.
hell, i was able to pull off the rare feat of sinking in my lonely 22cm (v-threader) to the hilt after trundling my final 13cm.
i also eyeballed a coupla lines that i've never noticed before and that are not documented in jason stevens guidebook.
sorry no pics available. yeah i know, no pics = invalid post...

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By Micah Lewkowitz
From Longmont, CO
Feb 19, 2013
Which way to the summit?
I found a quickdraw at the top of Skidders (between Running Man and Yellow Rapture) in Maple Canyon while wrapping up the day on Saturday. If this is yours, please identify the color/brand and I'll get it back to you. Cheers.

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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Feb 19, 2013
Hummm...
Took a Strawberry Road tour on Sunday; here's what I found...

Yes it's in. Yes it's on private property. What a ...
Yes it's in. Yes it's on private property. What a tease...


Another tease on private property, and not as fat ...
Another tease on private property, and not as fat as last year; probably mixed...


Public reclamation land I believe. There may be 2 ...
Public reclamation land I believe. There may be 2 other hidden pillars, and the upper pitches look fat...


Public reclamation land I believe. A low angle sno...
Public reclamation land I believe. A low angle snow gully approach to a pitch of ice, and another pitch further back along the wall.


Click and zoom on the pics for details. I forget the given names, so someone who does can fill that in. First two (on private property) are east of Strawberry Pinnacles, and 2nd two are west. Didn't get to the Timber Canyon Rd junction, where lies another nice climb or two...

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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 19, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.
Ron, have you or anyone else approached the private landowners about ice climbing on their land? Just curious if it was already a moot point or not.

FLAG
By Brian in SLC
Feb 19, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
RonB wrote:
First two (on private property) are east of Strawberry Pinnacles, and 2nd two are west. Didn't get to the Timber Canyon Rd junction, where lies another nice climb or two...


Too funny...I've climbed all except the second picture one you call "probably mixed". 10+ years ago or so.

First one is Spring Canyon Falls? Access hinky.

Second one, dunno. Someone climbed it a fair bit ago.

Third is Dead Deer Falls? Usually in from one to three pitches. I've climbed it a number of times in good to poor conditions. Crux may be crossing the creek.

Fourth...can't recall what we called it. V thread get off. If there isn't good snow to access the base, its a bit of a PIA to get to. Fun though. Looks big and in good shape right now.

Thanks for the updates!

FLAG
 
By Dave R.
Feb 19, 2013
Climbed in Joe's on Monday. The first two pitches of CCC falls were great. The last pitch has some fracturing. Still decent ice on part of the curtain, but a lot of it was pretty beat.

Fracture
Fracturing on CCC Falls
Fracturing on CCC Falls


Pitch 3 CCC Falls
Pitch 3 CCC Falls

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By Mooner
From Bountiful, UT
Feb 20, 2013
Strawberry Pinnacles Excalibur WI5 2/09/12
Ron did you happen to look for excalibur while in strawberry pinnicles? mountainproject.com/v/10746898... (picture from last year)

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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Feb 20, 2013
Hummm...
Mooner wrote:
Ron did you happen to look for excalibur while in strawberry pinnicles? mountainproject.com/v/10746898... (picture from last year)


Not sure from your pic. I thought either the 1st or 2nd pic I posted was called "Excalibur", according to what I was told last year. Where from the pinnacles is it located?

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By Brian in SLC
Feb 20, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
RonB wrote:
Not sure from your pic. I thought either the 1st or 2nd pic I posted was called "Excalibur", according to what I was told last year. Where from the pinnacles is it located?


Just over a half mile up Timber Canyon in an alcove on the left. Bottom of Jensen Canyon.

Go "Thor"! Ha ha...

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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Feb 21, 2013
Hummm...
Brian in SLC wrote:
Just over a half mile up Timber Canyon in an alcove on the left. Bottom of Jensen Canyon. Go "Thor"! Ha ha...


Right, I didn't go that far down the road, but I suspect it is in by the looks of the other climbs. If you want to check it out on Saturday, I'm free at the moment. Email me through my MP account...

FLAG
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 21, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.
Anyone interested in going out on a day mission tomorrow (2/21)?

FLAG
By chadnuesmeyer
Feb 23, 2013
Take it easy
In the new Liberty Mountain catalogue there are three climbs in UT that I am not familiar with, can you guys/gals help me find out (specifically where) more about them:
-Raven Falls
-Rough Neck
-The Least Complicate

Also, I saw some of the Strawberry pictures. Where is Strawberry Road?

In Advance, Thanks.

FLAG
By Doug Coats
Feb 23, 2013
chadnuesmeyer wrote:
In the new Liberty Mountain catalogue there are three climbs in UT that I am not familiar with, can you guys/gals help me find out (specifically where) more about them: -Raven Falls -Rough Neck -The Least Complicate Also, I saw some of the Strawberry pictures. Where is Strawberry Road? In Advance, Thanks.


The Least Complicated, aka TLC, is located up Spanish Fork Canyon, Hwy 6, in the Red Narrows section, almost directly across from the large cave on the north side of the canyon. TLC and it's sister climb on the left, are located at the back of a slot canyon on the south side. Unless things have changed since I last climbed them, access is by crossing the stream, then hiking up above them from down-canyon, and then rappelling into them. Both are very fun climbs when they are in.

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By Mark D Evans
From Sandy, UT
Feb 24, 2013
Enjoying the view from the top.
Went down to Santaquin earlier this week, ice was pretty good.

Angel of Fear 2/18/13
Angel of Fear 2/18/13



Squash Head 2/18/13 - Pretty Fat
Squash Head 2/18/13 - Pretty Fat



Back Off 2/18/13 - Highway of ice...
Back Off 2/18/13 - Highway of ice...

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By Josh Allred
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 24, 2013
P3 on Nutcracker.
Cool

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By RonB
From Strawberry Reservoir & VA
Feb 24, 2013
Hummm...
The Real Mark Evans wrote:
Went down to Santaquin earlier this week, ice was pretty good.


And I'm leaving Tuesday! It's tempting enough to cancel my flight and stay another week...By the way, who's the impostor 'Mark Evans' :')

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By Brian in SLC
Feb 25, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Above Moab, on Friday, Pleiades had interesting conditions. Deep snow in the creekbed on the approach. First drop had some ice. Second was bone dry. We looked down to the third but could just see snow. Strange. That's as far as we ventured.

Maple was still hanging in strong last Thursday.

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By Loweball
Feb 25, 2013
+1

Spent this weekend in Maple. Normally I'd specifically list routes and conditions, but it would be a Victorian romance novel at this point. I'll just make a couple of general notes:

Everything is in, minus a couple of mixed routes that are less-than-healthy.

The Box, both upper and lower, is just astonishing. Maple Syrup is especially cool, with a cave/curtain exit at the top. Maple Corners is in, although with a testy mixed step across from the right column to the left curtain.

Frankenchrist is getting done like it was in Vail.

Tread lightly on the last twenty feet of Cobble Cruncher. It's hollow and separated from wall, but not too bad.

All the Main Canyon road routes are just killer fun.

And keeping with the "no-photos posts are illegitimate" edict, here's a couple:


Cobble Cruncher
Cobble Cruncher



Unknown WI3, Upper Box.
Unknown WI3, Upper Box.



Road routes.
Road routes.

FLAG
By kevinhansen
From Albion Idaho
Feb 25, 2013
Why I do it...
My needs me some more Maple Canyon Photos.

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By Loweball
Feb 25, 2013
Okay, Kevin. Here's your ice fetish porn allotment:
Get Whacked
Get Whacked


Maple Syrup.  Maple Moon beyond.
Maple Syrup. Maple Moon beyond.


Golden Plum
Golden Plum


Unknown, Upper Box.
Unknown, Upper Box.


The Dagger.
The Dagger.


Running Man.
Running Man.

FLAG
By chadnuesmeyer
Feb 25, 2013
Take it easy
Doug Coats wrote:
The Least Complicated, aka TLC, is located up Spanish Fork Canyon, Hwy 6, in the Red Narrows section, almost directly across from the large cave on the north side of the canyon. TLC and it's sister climb on the left, are located at the back of a slot canyon on the south side. Unless things have changed since I last climbed them, access is by crossing the stream, then hiking up above them from down-canyon, and then rappelling into them. Both are very fun climbs when they are in.


@Doug, Thanks. I did some research and it looks like 'Raven' might be up near Logan. I am still trying to pin down exactly where.

FLAG
 
By Brian in SLC
Feb 25, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
chadnuesmeyer wrote:
@Doug, Thanks. I did some research and it looks like 'Raven' might be up near Logan. I am still trying to pin down exactly where.


Its south of Duchesne. Ditto Rough Neck.

FLAG


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