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Utah Ice Conditions '12-'13
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By vanman798
Feb 7, 2013
Mt Ogden, Summer 2012

Just wonder how well Joe's Valley is holding up? Any one been out there this week? Thanks.


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By Trever W.
Feb 8, 2013
Near Mt. Challenger, Picket range.

Anyone seen Maple recently?


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By Pete Wilk
Feb 9, 2013

Couple photos from the GWI BBQ.

Thanks to the organizers and especially to the sherpas hauling up the grill and charcoal.

www.petewilk.com/nextgen-gallery-page/nextGen-gallery/little>>>


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 11, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

as embarassing as this one is I have to try.... after climbing Scruffy Band with a small group on Firday feb 8th one of my ice tools didn't make it home, only thing I can think is it was left in the parking lot of the Park and Ride in the mouth of LCC. car was parked near the boulder in the southwest corner of the lot, if anybody knows picked it up I'll straight up beg on top of sending good karma and beer of choice and quantity, or rope gun belay slave, whatever it'll take. It's a bit older of a tool, orginal Grivel Light Wing with some petzl trigrests for leashless, can send a pick of the one that did make it home. incomes been very low this last year so it's something I can't afford to replace. thanks in advance for any good info, even if that info is what store it might be in......


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By BSU_Zac
From Cedar City, UT
Feb 11, 2013
Little Black Dike, February 2013

I'll be heading back to Utah March 1st. I know that is a ways away to know what the ice will be like but does anyone have any destinations suggestions? My partner is fairly new to technical ice climbing so I am looking for climbs that top ropes can be easily hung on around the WI3-4+ range. I appreciate any beta guys and I hope everyone has had a good ice seasons so far.


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By Sunny-D
From SLC, Utah
Feb 11, 2013
Top of Jah-Man Sister Superior

Joe's Valley has some easier stuff that can be top roped. The Dirtcicle on the way to Joe's is probably top roped more then lead and should still be in at that time.
If provo Canyon is still in there is loads of stuff there that can either be just top roped or lead then top roped. Apron of the stairway (top rope), Little Ouray (top rope) just down canyon from the Stairway to Heaven. Bridal Veil Right and Left WI3-5 (lead then top roped). You can climb Bridal Veil Right and carefully walk across the ledge to top rope any of the ice right there. White Nightmare WI4-5 (lead then top rope). A bit of ice 100 yrds. up canyon from Bridal Veil Falls (top roped). Saying that-- you can lead all of these climbs, but the ones that I listed as (top roped) have access to them by just hiking around.
Dallen


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 11, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

The Dirtcicle is looking a little lonely. Probably hasn't had any attention since November.

Dirtcicle
Dirtcicle


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By Alec
Feb 11, 2013
Stairway to Heaven, pitch three, Provo Canyon, UT

Trever W. wrote:
Anyone seen Maple recently?


Maple is still in and in good shape. All the typical stuff is in in the main canyon, right fork and box. The road is even plowed. We did Cobble Cruncher and it was good; a little wet and with a nice hollow tube at the top -- probably typical. The Dagger was huge and Maple Corner Left was looking at least as good as in the picture -- one of you hardmen should go do it and take pics!

There was some club there on Saturday with about 30 people (no joke) TRing just about every route in the Main Canyon, which was rather obnoxious.


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By Erik Eriksson
Feb 11, 2013
taking the steep line

Frankenchrist on feb 8th

frankenchrist  way steep mushrooms to deal with
frankenchrist way steep mushrooms to deal with


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By steve lindsay
Feb 11, 2013
Lone Peak

Anyone seen Willard Falls recently?


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Feb 12, 2013

steve lindsay wrote:
Anyone seen Willard Falls recently?

I would think that it is mostly buried in snow.


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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Feb 12, 2013
a

Went to Joe's yesterday and everything is looking nice. Didn't check out Spear of Fear but BD posted a pic on Facebook of Kyle Dempster leading it this past Saturday and it looked burly.

Question: on our way in to Deadbolt we had to bypass the short ice flow that goes up through a cave-like overhang as a boulder was blocking the topout. I'm assuming this is new as I climbed Deadbolt a month ago and remember being able to stay on the frozen stream the entire way into the crux curtain. Anyone know anything about this?


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By Sam Cannon
From Holladay, Utah
Feb 12, 2013
a

For those who don't follow BD on Facebook, here's the pic:

Spear of Fear
Spear of Fear
(Kyle Dempster climbing Spear of Fear in Joe's Valley somewhere in the weekend of Feb 9th).


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 12, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Anyone interested in getting out for a day mission tomorrow (2/13)?


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By steve lindsay
Feb 13, 2013
Lone Peak

Willard Falls is covered in snow, but the steep pitches are still real fun.


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By Pete Wilk
Feb 13, 2013

Alec wrote:
There was some club there on Saturday with about 30 people (no joke) TRing just about every route in the Main Canyon, which was rather obnoxious.


I was at Maple on Sunday and we ran into at least three ropes that were still set up as TRs on the road climbs. Not sure who the club was but leaving TRs overnight isn't cool. Had the ropes been better I might have had some new gear. We took down the ropes and left them near the climbs they came from. It didn't look like they were coming back on Sunday to claim their ropes either since we left around 4-5 pm and neither of the two cars still left were the owners.

Doubtful that the owners frequent this thread but: Please don't leave TRs overnight. Pick up your gear at the end of the day.


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By Rolf Kelly
Feb 13, 2013

Brian, thanks for the reply and info. We only made it to Stairway to Heaven and then decided to ski in the backcountry given the snowfall. We also heard stuff was not touching down in santaquin and maple was extremely thin. Stairway was good through pitch 5.


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By notmyname
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 13, 2013

whatever club that was needs a stern talkin' too regarding the # of people and routes they seiged. And leaving ropes overnight, especially on ice? WTF?


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By scott cooney
From La Casa Taco
Feb 13, 2013
11th hour of the Sundial

there are many clubs that frequent Maple, I know I've run across the Utah's Climbers Club there who were gang roping pipeline area. wasn't an issue for us as we weren't looking to hit pipeline but for some reason one of the group heads kept trying to give unsolicited beta about the approach, and mind you it was incorrect trying to push us away from their group. I just laughed every time they tried to "share" like that....

as far as ropes overnight, doing that should teach someone a lesson just from being ice climbing.... are you sure they weren't already frozen in the day before being why they were left?


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By cdec
From SLC and Moab, ut
Feb 13, 2013

Scottish Gully is in and fun.


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By Trav W.
Feb 13, 2013

I will be traveling to central Utah next week. I am hoping to climb at Maple. The conditions sound pretty good. I am also looking for a partner. Is anyone willing to join up any days monday through thursday?


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By Brian in SLC
Feb 13, 2013
Climbing in Smuggler's Notch

Rolf Kelly wrote:
Brian, thanks for the reply and info. We only made it to Stairway to Heaven and then decided to ski in the backcountry given the snowfall. We also heard stuff was not touching down in santaquin and maple was extremely thin. Stairway was good through pitch 5.


Good on ya and thanks for the report!


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 13, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

I was down at Stairway this morning and climbed up the first three pitches. The fourth pitch was either a super drippy pillar (the V-shaped one in the photo) or a much thinner easy ramp on the right. The topout was a bit sketchy for that though it was protectable.

stairway 2/13
stairway 2/13


Not super fat, but the ice is very good quality right now. Great sticks and great screw placements.


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By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 14, 2013
Cleaning up in Jenny Lake.

Joe's is definitely still in and in great shape. Climbed CCC Falls, Deadbolt, and The Donorcicle. Led Donorcicle on the left side, would've been much better in the center as far as screw placements. Things got drippy after noon on Deadbolt, so don't sleep in.

Deadbolt
Deadbolt


CCC Falls
CCC Falls


The Donorcicle
The Donorcicle


Looked like Spear of Fear melted through at the top of the cone and is no longer climbable.


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By Erik Eriksson
Feb 15, 2013
taking the steep line

candelstick from my facebook page last week
this and atc in decent shape
both pitches of atc are stout

taking the steep line
taking the steep line


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