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Using HMS/Parabiner for belay



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By Wei-Ming
From Atlanta, GA
Apr 25, 2012
Mountaineering in BC, coiling rope sunset of a 13 hour day...

So, I've always used hms or parabiner for belaying with tubular belay devices. I've seen people belay with biners like BD Positron, Omega Pacific Locking D. Usually these climbers are not going to be rappelling/munter hitch/rigging/belaying from above. Personally, I see this as a red-flag for a belayer, and use caution when tying in with them.

I stick with the hms not only because of it's extra utility, but just instinctually as well. With a rope constantly moving on the biner, it seems logical that a larger biner is less likely to unscrew, as well as handle rope better.

Have been trying to figure out if there are any other reasons to recommend a hms to folks using small asymmetrical locking biners as their belay as opposed to Attache, Rocklock, DMM Boa etc. Most of the benefits seem to kick in if you get into outdoor climbing, and if they are never planning on doing that...?

Weigh in?


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By Locker
From Westminster, CO
Apr 25, 2012
...

I don't tie in with n00bs, thus don't have the problem...


EDITED:

Should ad that everyone at the begining of their climbing days is a n00b...

That I no longer tie in with a n00b is not an insult to n00bs, I just know enough experienced climbers that I don't tie in with n00bs...


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By shoo
Apr 25, 2012
Rock wars, Red River Gorge

It's a PEARbiner.

The best belay carabiners are generally small, are made from a round-stock for both smooth belay and durability, and have a longer "top" section for use with munter and/or two rope systems.

Using a regular old locker is just fine for single rope belaying, the only real negative being that it is likely less smooth than something more made for the purpose.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Apr 25, 2012
bouldering at RRG

I"ve seen ropes go cross gate or across the back rib on odd shaped belay biners. A 'pear' shaped, rounded stock works best for smooth function and less chance of 'biner flipping over during active use.


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