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Using BD Peckers as ice pro?



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By NickMartel
From Tucson, Arizona
Dec 24, 2011

So Living in AZ I don't have much experience with ice but we are going to do a route this winter in which we may run into anywhere from no ice, to an 80' pitch of 5.4 climbing when dry that may be an icy/snowy gully, to perhaps several pitches of thin ice and frozen snow/slush. I have a couple ice screws (3x10cm, 1x16cm, 1x22cm previous gen BD screws, 1x16cm Russian Ti Screw, and 1x 16cm snarg) but don't have a Specter to compare my BD Peckers too.

My question is if BD Peckers would work similarly to a specter only smaller for use on thin ice/icy seams ect... If so which sizes would you expect to work, only the biggest one, or the medium and/or small as well?... Even if it is not ideal I am usually of the opinion that pro-wise something is almost always better than nothing, and the conditions may make more traditional forms of ice protection useless. I am also going to have a selections of pins and a trad rack with me so its not like I a going to be relying only on Peckers in ice, just wondering if it is possible...


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By Dan Dalton
From Boulder, CO
Dec 24, 2011
Working the sick hand-jams on Stemwide aka Big Dihedral (5.8) at North Table. Photo courtesy of Scott Borger.

Definitely possible, but not much protection. If I recall correctly, peckers are used predominately for aid, but very rarely for actually protection. That being said, I have only used my Specter Ice Piton a handful of times and even though it is designed for turf and cracks in ice as a protection piece, I would never want to fall on it. If you are going to need protection from a fall in thin conditions or on stone, pitons with the S marking are classified as safety
pitons and are designed for this purpose (they pass the EN 569 norm governing breaking strength and a minimum 90mm useful length.) They come just as tapered and sharp as a pecker and would do much better for the purpose. They are designed as safety pitons, not progression pitons (as used in aid) so they would be more likely to hold a fall. Similarly, many of these pitons are made from a softer metal and are able to conform to the crack better than a hardened steel pecker would be able to.

Hope this info helps. I would stay away from the peckers!! But like you said, some pro is better than no pro! Good luck.


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By Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Dec 24, 2011
on top of the RNWF <br />June 2012

a pecker pounded into ice will not hold body weight. However rock gear placed in rock next to the ice might. (surprisingly enough) ice and rock protection are not interchangeable!


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By Matt Pickren
Dec 24, 2011
Where did the rock go?

Really?! Not purposely trying to be an ass, but REALLY!?

On that note, will cams will work between ice columns? If that raises any thought, be careful on said route.


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By Buff Johnson
Dec 24, 2011
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth.  <br /> <br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve.  <br /> <br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger. <br />

no


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By Yarp
Dec 24, 2011

Congrats on the dumbest idea that I've seen posted to these boards in 2011! I didn't think anyone could come up with such a winner at this late of an hour, but I was wrong! Just awesome!


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By Chris Plesko
From Westminster, CO
Dec 24, 2011
OMG, I winz!!!

Bring skills to climb it and brains to back off if you can't. Sometimes that stuff is just not protectable.


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By Bud Martin
From Bozeman, MT
Dec 25, 2011

Though it was pounded into mud, not ice. Some dude took a 60 footer on one last year gunning for the third ascent of The Matriarch in Hyalite and it held... I think he finished the route after that. I do feel that if there was a KB crack choked with ice a large pecker wouldn't be a horrible idea.


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By jack s.
From Kamloops, BC
Jan 17, 2012
Mean Green P2

Screamer the hell out of it...


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By tomde01
From 10510
Feb 2, 2012

it completely depends on how you use the pecker. I would never trust one hammered into ice. They toque out very easily and are not multi directional.
The only scenarios where you should use a pecker is if you find a thin crack filled with ice or if your aiding an icy crack. For example my knifeblade can be hammered into the crack as pro, but why use a knife blade when I have serrated pecker.
However, i'd rather just use a piton.


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By Jon Rhoderick
Feb 2, 2012

I too, good sir, toque out very easily...


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 2, 2012
bouldering at RRG

what you want is the uber sized relative of the pecker , called a spectre. they are about the size of an ice tool pick, and work nice in frozen moss and dirt, sometime even ice too.


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