By NickMartel From Tucson, Arizona Dec 24, 2011
| So Living in AZ I don't have much experience with ice but we are going to do a route this winter in which we may run into anywhere from no ice, to an 80' pitch of 5.4 climbing when dry that may be an icy/snowy gully, to perhaps several pitches of thin ice and frozen snow/slush. I have a couple ice screws (3x10cm, 1x16cm, 1x22cm previous gen BD screws, 1x16cm Russian Ti Screw, and 1x 16cm snarg) but don't have a Specter to compare my BD Peckers too. My question is if BD Peckers would work similarly to a specter only smaller for use on thin ice/icy seams ect... If so which sizes would you expect to work, only the biggest one, or the medium and/or small as well?... Even if it is not ideal I am usually of the opinion that pro-wise something is almost always better than nothing, and the conditions may make more traditional forms of ice protection useless. I am also going to have a selections of pins and a trad rack with me so its not like I a going to be relying only on Peckers in ice, just wondering if it is possible... |  FLAG |
By Dan Dalton From Boulder, CO Dec 24, 2011
| Definitely possible, but not much protection. If I recall correctly, peckers are used predominately for aid, but very rarely for actually protection. That being said, I have only used my Specter Ice Piton a handful of times and even though it is designed for turf and cracks in ice as a protection piece, I would never want to fall on it. If you are going to need protection from a fall in thin conditions or on stone, pitons with the S marking are classified as safety pitons and are designed for this purpose (they pass the EN 569 norm governing breaking strength and a minimum 90mm useful length.) They come just as tapered and sharp as a pecker and would do much better for the purpose. They are designed as safety pitons, not progression pitons (as used in aid) so they would be more likely to hold a fall. Similarly, many of these pitons are made from a softer metal and are able to conform to the crack better than a hardened steel pecker would be able to. Hope this info helps. I would stay away from the peckers!! But like you said, some pro is better than no pro! Good luck. |  FLAG |
By Keenan Waeschle From Bozeman, MT Dec 24, 2011
| a pecker pounded into ice will not hold body weight. However rock gear placed in rock next to the ice might. (surprisingly enough) ice and rock protection are not interchangeable! |  FLAG |
By Matt Pickren Dec 24, 2011
| Really?! Not purposely trying to be an ass, but REALLY!? On that note, will cams will work between ice columns? If that raises any thought, be careful on said route. |  FLAG |
By Yarp Dec 24, 2011
| Congrats on the dumbest idea that I've seen posted to these boards in 2011! I didn't think anyone could come up with such a winner at this late of an hour, but I was wrong! Just awesome! |  FLAG |
By Chris Plesko From Westminster, CO Dec 24, 2011
| Bring skills to climb it and brains to back off if you can't. Sometimes that stuff is just not protectable. |  FLAG |
By Bud Martin From Bozeman, MT Dec 25, 2011
| Though it was pounded into mud, not ice. Some dude took a 60 footer on one last year gunning for the third ascent of The Matriarch in Hyalite and it held... I think he finished the route after that. I do feel that if there was a KB crack choked with ice a large pecker wouldn't be a horrible idea. |  FLAG |
By jack s. From Kamloops, BC Jan 17, 2012
| Screamer the hell out of it... |  FLAG |
By tomde01 From 10510 Feb 2, 2012
| it completely depends on how you use the pecker. I would never trust one hammered into ice. They toque out very easily and are not multi directional. The only scenarios where you should use a pecker is if you find a thin crack filled with ice or if your aiding an icy crack. For example my knifeblade can be hammered into the crack as pro, but why use a knife blade when I have serrated pecker. However, i'd rather just use a piton. |  FLAG |
By Woodchuck ATC Feb 2, 2012
| what you want is the uber sized relative of the pecker , called a spectre. they are about the size of an ice tool pick, and work nice in frozen moss and dirt, sometime even ice too. |  FLAG |
|