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using accessory cord for slings...
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By generationfourth
From Irvine, CA
Aug 10, 2012

I've been meaning to start carrying more accessory cord while climbing multi-pitch for emergency or self-rescue situations. I've been putting it off because I just really hate carrying more weight on me. I got an idea to get rid of a couple of my double length runners, replacing them with accessory cord instead. Maybe replacing a shoulder length and a elbow length as well. It seems as if I can cancel out some of the weight by doing this. They would be more versatile than the runners as I can untie them, use them for prussiks, bail/back up rappels, etc. I guess a downside is they may not always be directly on me if I'm using them as slings/draws. Thoughts? recommendations on diameter/lengths? I'm gonna die?


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By wivanoff
Aug 10, 2012
High Exposure

generationfourth wrote:
I've been meaning to start carrying more accessory cord while climbing multi-pitch for emergency or self-rescue situations.


I tie my chalk bag on with a loop of 6mm cord and a sheet bend. I sometimes carry one or two "draws" made of 6mm loops that are doubled.

Cordage makes better friction knots, IMO. But, I've used nylon slings with a French Prusik or Klemheist.


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By generationfourth
From Irvine, CA
Aug 10, 2012

wivanoff wrote:
I tie my chalk bag on with a loop of 6mm cord and a sheet bend. I sometimes carry one or two "draws" made of 6mm loops that are doubled. Cordage makes better friction knots, IMO. But, I've used nylon slings with a French Prusik or Klemheist.


ah the chalk bag! great idea. and good point I need to learn friction knots that can be used with nylon slings.


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By Brad W
From San Diego
Aug 10, 2012

Well, tied 6mm cord loops aren't going to be as strong as webbing slings. (~8 kn * 2 strands - knot efficiency, so like 12-13 kN at best). Of course you could go to 7mm or greater too.

Webbing tied with a water knot is another option.

This PDF as always is useful for comparing different cords and webbing for different applications:
user.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/High_Strength_Cord.pdf


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By divnamite
From New York, NY
Aug 10, 2012

Before you swap out anything, take a self rescue course first. You'll be surprised by the amount of gear you need and don't need.


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By Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Aug 10, 2012
Rewritten

generationfourth wrote:
I've been meaning to start carrying more accessory cord while climbing multi-pitch for emergency or self-rescue situations. I've been putting it off because I just really hate carrying more weight on me.



I don't think you really need it for rescue, but I always carry one double length sling tied from 7mm accessory cord in case I need to bail. I also have my chalk bag tied with the same type of accessory cord as someone else suggested. I used to just carry double length dyneema slings because they were lighter, but at $15 a pop, it sucks leaving them behind versus a few dollars worth of cord (not to mention you have to cut and retie them to make some situations work while the cord is more versatile). I've carried additional webbing in the past, but it seems silly to carry webbing plus dyneema slings, when you can carry just accessory cord slings/chalk bag belt and save in total weight...


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By generationfourth
From Irvine, CA
Aug 10, 2012

divnamite wrote:
Before you swap out anything, take a self rescue course first. You'll be surprised by the amount of gear you need and don't need.


Yeah I've been going over the climbing self rescue book (with the red cover). I seem to be already carrying everything I need with the exception of an extra prussik, and an extra ~10 feet of cord...

(and yes I know that reading a book doesn't equal taking a class)


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By Russ Facente
Aug 12, 2012

I have a Bail Belt on my chalk bag, made of flat webbing like all the chalk bag leashes (prana, arcteryx, etc.). Its got a quick release snap buckle but can be used as an eye to eye "rabbit" runner to bail off a climb. It's somewhere in the middle of super comfy and super practical.


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Aug 19, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

Its nice When you cut part of an anchor cord to use the leftovers for this or use it as a quad if it's long enough. Anyway, consider using different thickness cord for different applications. 5mm for rescue, prussik cord, 6mm for anchors, 7 if ya want it to be really beefy. Just a thought... But honestly as long as you've got 1 prussik you don't need a ton of small pieces of cord

What I've been carrying for alpine style multi pitches:
1 prussik (keep it on my leg loop on a locker)
1 21 ft 5mm cord
AT LEAST 3 lockers reserved for rescue, 4 if a bail is possible
A few rap rings if it's long.


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By EFS
Aug 19, 2012
...

Julius Beres wrote:
I don't think you really need it for rescue, but I always carry one double length sling tied from 7mm accessory cord in case I need to bail. I also have my chalk bag tied with the same type of accessory cord as someone else suggested. I used to just carry double length dyneema slings because they were lighter, but at $15 a pop, it sucks leaving them behind versus a few dollars worth of cord (not to mention you have to cut and retie them to make some situations work while the cord is more versatile). I've carried additional webbing in the past, but it seems silly to carry webbing plus dyneema slings, when you can carry just accessory cord slings/chalk bag belt and save in total weight...




dude, !!!!!!!!please!!!!!!! do not try tying dyneema slings.....im surprised no one has said anything to you yet, or they just didnt catch it. dyneema cord, yes, but knots will slip in dyneema webbing.

edit: now i just found a post a half page down about knots in dyneema, maybe you should have a look at it.....i thought this was common knowledge when companies first started using dyneema a long time ago.

also.....

dmmclimbing.com/news/2012/03/knotting-dyneema%C2%AE-vid/


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Aug 20, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

Read the tags that come with the gear you buy if you're new... It will answer questions like that. Good catch!


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