Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Seurat Area
Select Route:
All Dogs Go To Evans 
Blackie 
Broken Arrow Dyno 
Broken Arrow Left 
Broken Arrow Right (FKA Anorexic Gymnast) 
Champagne Left 
Champagne Right 
Champagne Room, The 
Cherry Top Rip (Name Unknown) 
Child Stars 
Chocolate Croissant 
Chrome 
Dilithium Crystal 
Diving Board, The 
Hollow Deception 
Jasper 
Rawhide 
Seurat 
Silverback 
Useless Tools 

Useless Tools 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, Alpine, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: James O'Conner, 2009
Page Views: 388
Submitted By: Chip Phillips on Nov 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
This picture depicts the south face of the Seurat ...

The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Useless Tools begins from a sit start that ups the ante for the moderate problem Broken Arrow. Begin from a sds on high sloping crimps, pull your butt off the ground and campus up to a left hand edge. Do not cheat by using a dynamic butt start. Now that the real difficulties are over, enjoy surfing right across really good holds and finish as for Broken Arrow.

Since it's really an awkward 1-move wonder into a really nice V3, I've given it only 1 star. That doesn't mean there's anything wrong with playing on this problem, it's just "OK" as far as V9s go.

Location 

About 20 feet left of Seurat on the same boulder, Useless Tools is the sit start to Broken Arrow.

Protection 

An Organic pad or two.


Comments on Useless Tools Add Comment
Show which comments
By Cesar Valencia
Oct 29, 2012
rating: V7- 7A+

Pretty sure this got downgraded to a V7, since it's one kind of weird move. I thought it was fun, but I know for a fact it's not a V9.
By Ryando Smithman
From: Golden, CO
Jun 16, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

I can see the campus being difficult for some, considering there is no option for footwork. That being said, this problem was rather easy for me, but I'm more of a power climber. Tough call.