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Laurel Knob
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A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) 
Aloha slab 
Annie Get Your Guns 
Arrested Development  
Before the Settlers Arrive 
Better late than never 
Black Flag 
Buried Treasure 
Canyons of Laurel 
Central Pillar Direct Finish 
Central Pillar of Laurel 
Clippidy Doodah... 
Clowns to the Left of me 
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Defective Sonar 
Dike hike - Monster Groove 
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Don't call me surely 
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Fathom Escape Hatch 
Finger Lickin' Good 
Friction Addiction 
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Funky Chicken, The 
Get it while it's hot 
Gibbet , The 
Girl friend route 
Groover (Fischesser Finish) 
Groover (Gaskin Finish) 
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel 
Have and Not Need 
High & Dry 
Hone Ranger 
Hypocrite's Corner 
Jokers to the right  
Keel Hauled 
Laurel's Girdle 
Legendary "F" Bomb, The 
Manatee Fluid 
Mechanical Bull 
Mirage Direct Finish 
Monster Groove Direct Start 
Monster Groove Reject Start 
Nana's Bananas 
Nanna Gets Her Groove On 
No Sir (?) 
O.K. Corral 
Old Times' Sake 
Permission Granite 
Pirate's Cove 
Pirate's cove Alt start 
Pirate's Cove direct finish 
Puff The Magic Dragon 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete 
Rejected Radar 
Route Of The Living Dead 
Squirrely man 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. 
Stellar Sonar 
Stemming Laurel 
Use It Or Luge It 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start 
Walkin' Da Plank 
Wild Turkeys 
Wild Wild West  

Use it or Luge it Direct Start 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andrew M. - November 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: andjoely on Nov 30, 2009
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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>


Place gear in horizontal to prevent you from tumbling way down slab if you blow moves to first bolt. Clip first bolt (I used a single locker since the second bolt is way up there) decipher a well protected, tricky crux. Get to good holds from which you don't want to fall from after the crux (5.9+ R, plus nasty fall potential onto slab), mantle and clip second bolt. Continue up to a flared crack 5 feet higher which takes offset cams and tricams. Climb up and left on cool face holds to another crack which takes medium cams. Climb up the water groove and the face next to it to a stance in the groove just before it steepens, then delicately traverse left to the pillar where you get good gear (around #1 camalot or so with a very long sling). This traverse section is 5.8X. Double ropes or very long sling recommended or back clean it after clipping the next bolt. then continue right back to the groove to finish up the standard first pitch. The whole first pitch is about 150 feet long done this way with about 60 feet of new climbing for the direct start.


Go up to the tree ledge left of the slabby apron where Manatee fluid starts. The obvious crack in the Middle of this ledge is the start of Nana's Bananas. This route starts about 30 feet left of Nana's Bananas just right of an obvious steep black water streak which is the continuation of the water groove of Use it or Luge it.


Offset cams and tricams are nice to have. The direct start wont take anything larger than #2 camalot though when you get to the pillar you could place most sizes.

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By Ed Williams
Dec 1, 2009

Badass! Nice work...