Use it or Luge it Direct Start 5.11c R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | Andrew M. - November 2009 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | andjoely on Nov 30, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Topo
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Description Place gear in horizontal to prevent you from tumbling way down slab if you blow moves to first bolt. Clip first bolt (I used a single locker since the second bolt is way up there) decipher a well protected, tricky crux. Get to good holds from which you don't want to fall from after the crux (5.9+ R, plus nasty fall potential onto slab), mantle and clip second bolt. Continue up to a flared crack 5 feet higher which takes offset cams and tricams. Climb up and left on cool face holds to another crack which takes medium cams. Climb up the water groove and the face next to it to a stance in the groove just before it steepens, then delicately traverse left to the pillar where you get good gear (around #1 camalot or so with a very long sling). This traverse section is 5.8X. Double ropes or very long sling recommended or back clean it after clipping the next bolt. then continue right back to the groove to finish up the standard first pitch. The whole first pitch is about 150 feet long done this way with about 60 feet of new climbing for the direct start.
Location Go up to the tree ledge left of the slabby apron where Manatee fluid starts. The obvious crack in the Middle of this ledge is the start of Nana's Bananas. This route starts about 30 feet left of Nana's Bananas just right of an obvious steep black water streak which is the continuation of the water groove of Use it or Luge it.
Protection Offset cams and tricams are nice to have. The direct start wont take anything larger than #2 camalot though when you get to the pillar you could place most sizes.
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